Archive for July, 2007

Sister Act

Sister Act appeared in Islands Magazine, 2001.

I have connected deeply with my Sicilian roots through many visits to the old country over the past 24 years and it remains one of my abiding spiritual quests. For one trip to the island, I considered the novelty of sleeping in monasteries and convents—Italy’s monastic bed-and-board tradition harking back to medieval times. As a devoutly lapsed Catholic, I still relish pealing bells, glowing candles, and incense. In fact, perverse as it sounds, I was, for the year, living in a monastery—the San Francisco Zen Center.

When my sister Grace heard I was going, she piped up, “Ooohhh, can I go?” My first thought was, “Just like old times, younger sister wants to tag along.” Until about 30 years ago, we were two peas in a pod. Then she went the mortgage-marriage-kids route and I went off in search of the metaphysical.

“Of course,” I answered, remembering how we were once arrested for trespassing on an old freighter in Secaucus. Miraculously, our parents never found out.
We had invitations from two other siblings, Terry and her family and Tom and his family, to stay in their rented beach-side villas in the relatively modern resort, San Vito Lo Capo, west of Palermo.
“Too predictable,” I told Grace. “We need places with curiosities—like Grandma’s attic—with mystery and magic.”
“I’m with you,” she said, entrusting me, her senior by a year, to plan her first-ever journey abroad. Buono. With that I faxed off reservations, looking forward to worldly days of touring, reverent evenings in the quietude of hermitages.

On our first morning in Palermo’s bright hilltop refuge of the Sisters of Bell’amore, the sun blazed through our bedroom like a shaft of grace from heaven above. Grace, the sister, remained sound asleep, just as she used to back when I would get up and go to mass before school. Alone, I joined the Sisters of Beautiful Love in the subterranean chapel and did something I hadn’t done in years.
“I received Holy Communion,” I confessed to Grace over carafes of steamed milk and espresso.

“We’re going to Hell anyway,” she said, still shaking sleep.
“So are the clergy here,” I told her. “The priest and nuns giggled during the Mass.”

“So? How do you know it’s not part of the liturgy now? For all you know there’s been another Ecumenical Council updating the service.”

“You mean like those high fives, back slaps, and peace signs people give each other now?”

“So you have been to church lately.”

“Not since the 20th century. They giggled ’cause Father fumbled the liturgy. Is nothing sacred?” I postured.

“My morning sleep…and our next cappuccino,” she yawned.

And so we inaugurated our routine as each monastery reinforced the established rhythm of our lives. I’d be up early each morning (the universal hour of mysticism) holding a figurative magnifying glass up to anything in the monastic setting—a Renaissance fresco, an old white-bearded man who never left the church pew; a marble altar with a huge wooden choir and 500-year-old pipe organ; the archetypal friar who strolled the halls with a ring of skeleton keys hanging from his triple-knotted cord. In a Benedictine abbey that dated back to the 6th century, I crouched unseen, and dis-invited by a clergyman; at a chapel wall where the monks chanted vespers. I was the wrong sex to set foot inside—just like old times.

Grace invariably slept late and during her waking hours industriously kept score—of our food and espresso stops, shopping, and beach sitting. She wanted a balance of the profane and sacred, she said.

She seemed to enjoy the solitude at each sanctuary until the Franciscan one in Gibilmanna, which is pitched quietly against a dark forest at 2,500 feet above the Mediterranean. A reserved padre had shown us to our room and then we never saw him again, not even at 9:30 p.m. when, upon our return from dinner in Cefalú, it took an unsettling 10 minutes of banging before a shadowy figure unbolted a door.

“This one is too laid back,” she stated. “You sure this isn’t some retro form of penance?”
“Oh, it’s only a minor disturbance,” I cajoled.
“Easy for you to say,” she said.
“O.K,” I conceded, “Shopping tomorrow and to the beach in Cefalú.” Actually, shopping is a form of penance for me, so I sat on the beach while Grace made the medieval village merchants happy.

However, once my sister had a prolonged taste of Sicily’s convivial lay world, she was in no hurry to go back to the men and women of the cloth. But I had yet to quell my curiosity, so we compromised. Between our final convent stays, we would sandwich a night in the lavish San Domenico in Taormina.
“Can you get us in there?” she asked.
“Hey, I’m the Pope,” I told my younger sister.” But you’ll have to put on a dress,” I said, proffering the absurd notion that this would be a hardship for her. She couldn’t wait to wear the $300 red summer dress that was unsuitable for the eyes of celibacy. Grace took to the decadent five-star hotel like an acetic to a hair shirt. She proceeded to help the jewelers of Taormina toward an early retirement, stocking up on 18-karat gold.
All of which did nothing to prepare her for our return to a clergy-run lodging. At Noto’s Benedictine convent, we were in the midst of the nun’s attire we had been raised with—only face and hands exposed from beneath layers of form-blunting habit.
“Sister Celeste has a sweet, beatific countenance,” I pointed out.
“Most unusual for a mother superior,” said Grace.

By and by, several sisters came to our room to make sure, “Tutt’é bene.” Each knock was preceded by the dark penguin form visible through our frosted glass door.
“Si, all’s well,” I assured each, even as the next morning I instigated a comedy of errors. I pushed a switch I thought would light up a Madonna and Child painting over my bed. Not knowing I’d rung an emergency bell, I went for a walk. Grace, whose Italian is sketchy, awoke from her deep sleep to frantic banging on the door, which she opened wondering aloud through puffy eyes, “Dové sta mia sorella (where’s my sister)?” Sister proceeded to search my bed sheets, then the bathroom with a bewildered Grace in tow. They were engaged in energetic hand language when I strolled back in the room.

Resigned to not stumbling upon anything magical or otherwise mystical, I told Grace, “We better pay a quick visit to their sister Benedictine house.”
Grace agreed. And there, n Modica, in the ocher-stone nunnery of a sun-steeped countryside woven with Sicily’s ancient vines, olive trees, and citrus orchards, we learned a secret.

Fellow Sicilian American Laura, a novitiate from Cincinnati, led us through sunlit courtyards and dark chapels, then said, “Let me show you what I was doing when you arrived.” She unlocked the door to a room dominated by a large hospital-green contraption that looked like an X-ray machine fitted with turntables. Marina, a fledgling nun from Poland, would not let us photograph her as she fed the machine water and flour, mundane ingredients that came out as large disks of Holy Communion host. Embossed with the crucifix, they were placed into the jaws of another apparatus that cut them into bite-size wafers, falling by the hundreds into buckets, to feed the faithful masses.
Laura beamed proudly. Nothing short of demystifying the Blessed Trinity could have stunned us more than “robo-host.”
When we left, I asked Grace, “Did you have any idea?”
“No,” she said as we drifted down a winding, sun-gilded road. “I thought they came down from heaven.”

Sicily with Grace

Los Angeles Times – Sicily with Grace

SIRACUSA, Italy — It’s one thing to visit a Greek temple. It’s another to wonder whether one of your ancestors had a hand in raising that spectacular monument of well-proportioned stone. Fanciful though it is, that’s the thought that has often flashed through my mind during my trips over the past 24 years to Sicily, homeland to all my forebears.

If pressed to locate Sicily, most people will say it’s Italian, and many will know it’s the island off the toe of Italy’s “boot.” Few people know that before Sicily was Italian, it was Greek (and a few other cultures in between).

Ask a Sicilian about this, and you will learn that the great mathematician Archimedes was born in Siracusa. Ask my father, and you will hear that Dante was enchanted by the polyglot Sicilian language, and that God planted the Garden of Eden here.

My father’s relentless boasting of Sicily’s undervalued greatness is what inspired my first trip, in 1976. Who wouldn’t want to see a land that had been ruled and shaped by every great and some not-so-great civilizations? The Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, and the Serbs, Goths, Vandals, Saracens, Arabs, Normans, Byzantines, Spanish–they all left their mark on Sicily.

On my first trip, panicky about meeting my father’s cousins, I made a pilgrimage of sorts to Agrigento and its Valley of the Temples, where four of them stand in a harmonious line on a ridge overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. I had no idea how to invoke the support of the temples’ gods, Castor and Pollux (patrons of sailors), mighty Hercules and the moody Hera, but I left feeling fortified.

More than 20 years later, in 1998, I took my parents there. We found the same pink and gold maritime light suffusing shrines where divine auguries transpired 25 centuries before. My father, a softer patriarch at age 78, sat on a ledge in the scant shade of an acacia tree and said his rosary. My mother and I slowly climbed to pay homage to the gods and goddesses of our ancestors. We rested in the long shadow of the 34 fluted columns of the Temple of Concordia.

Afterward, outside the valley strewn with antiquities–remains of tombs, altars, sanctuaries–we tempered the solemnity of the day with food fit for gods or mortals, pesce spada (swordfish).

Last June, my sister Grace joined me for her first trip to Sicily. The fifth and sixth kids in our parents’ assembly line, we grew up with the same stories from our dad. But I had something else to show her: the cult of the Great Mother.

Our quest began in Erice (pronounced EH-ree-chay), on the west end of the island. (We had flown into Palermo, Sicily’s main city, where we enjoyed an inaugural feast of pasta with fresh sardines and chickpea-flour frittata, before setting off in our rental car.)

Driving up Monte Erice on the serpentine road that ascends steeply from the drab streets of seaside Trapani, we could see what attracted the Elymians, who settled here before the Greeks. As we rose, sweeping views took in Trapani’s sickle-shaped coastline and its salt marshes, and the misty humps of the Egadi Islands scattered offshore.

The village of Erice is dominated by the crenelated turrets and tower of Castello di Venere, a crumbling 12th century Saracen and Norman castle built over a temple to Aphrodite (Venus to the Romans). The castle ruins embrace the remains of Roman baths and a dungeon. There’s nothing to see of the temple, where a cult of priestesses personified Venus in the flesh–”sacred prostitutes” who assisted mortals hoping to sire divine offspring.

The Mediterranean peoples’ worship of the goddess of fertility, be it Astarte (Carthaginian), Aphrodite (Greek) or Venus (Roman), was entrenched in Erice for 1,000 years before Christ. Over the centuries, the church channeled devotion to the goddess into devotion to the Virgin Mary. Yet up to modern times, Erice has been known to celebrate Aphrodite in spring with processional fanfare.

Grace, indulging my penchant for the mystical, stood reverently with me on the grass above the temple site. Then she declared cappuccino time.

Erice is the home of Maria Grammatico, a celebrated baker and master of the craft of painting marzipan (almond dough) to resemble fruit.

Walking toward her shop on Via Vittorio Emanuele, we wound through Erice’s narrow cobblestone streets, admiring flower-filled courtyards. The medieval mood holds up well if you don’t catch a glimpse of the communications towers that lace the town’s skyline.

Sicily’s sumptuous food, like its architecture, is textured by its many conquerors, most notably the Arabs. They brought sugar to Europe in the 9th century, as well as a genius for recipes incorporating almonds, pistachios and dried fruit. To me, this has its highest expression in cannoli, the crisp pastry shell filled with creamy ricotta cheese and bits of all of these sweetmeats, as well as chocolate.

Fortified with Maria’s cannoli, we were ready for our lodgings in Casa del Sorriso (House of the Smile). A hermitage that housed Franciscan monks from 1573 until 1970, the inn rises grandly above a steep pine forest with dizzying views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It retains its monastic feel with vaulted ceilings, a contemplative cloister and low arched doors that lead to small, spartan rooms converted from monks’ cells. Each was furnished with a twin bed, chair and reading lamp, and each had a tiny private bath.

Dinner was simple and good–marinated scungilli (conch), caponata (an eggplant and olive mix), rigatoni with a spicy meat sauce and the sweet, juice-gorged loquats that burst forth all over Sicily.

We had built flexibility into our itinerary to avoid getting stoned on ruins. Siracusa, the queen of Sicily’s archeology treasures, would be our major stop. But even our leisurely three-day tour of Sicily’s north coast effortlessly exposed us to ancient sites.

Scopello, for instance, a steeply notched beach in the rocky shore about 20 miles east of Erice, is adjacent to the Zingaro Nature Reserve. This stunning park contains caves, to which we easily hiked and in which 12,000-year-old human skeletons have been found.

A few miles up the road is the beach resort town of San Vito lo Capo. We spent some time there with two of our siblings who were staying in a condo. I remember a marvelous lunch on the terrace of Trattoria Galante: briny-sweet shrimp and tender calamari polished off with a bottle of chilled Corvo, Sicily’s crisp white wine.

Taking the scenic coast road instead of the express autostrada (except to skirt Palermo), we drove east to Cefalù.

Cefalù, with its Rocca, a landmark crag that towers over the town, is a popular vacation destination. The shell of a temple to the goddess Diana survives at the top of La Rocca. It’s possible to hike up, but I was content to admire it from a road leading out of town.

The drive along the coast from Cefalù to Taormina took five or six hours. We made one extended stop at Santo Stefano di Camastra, a ceramics paradise, where Grace stocked up on vases, tiles and bowls. After that I switched to the autostrada, and our only stops were at service areas, which serve the best espresso drinks.

Taormina, the island’s aristocratic jewel, sits on a hill above the Ionian Sea, with a view of Mt. Etna’s smoking volcano to the west. It has been a favorite resort of the elites since Greek days, and is worth a splurge.

I had booked a room for one night at Taormina’s highest-rated hotel, the San Domenico Palace, at $250 worth every lira.

Being a former monastery does not diminish the hotel’s air of luxurious indolence–spacious rooms with huge baths, gardens for strolling, a lap pool with bar service–but medallions and frescoes of martyr saints still watch from above doorways.

Dinner on the elegant outdoor terrace was superb, if formal. I longed for the antics I’d experienced with my parents at nearby Ristorante Da Lorenzo. The waiters all but kissed the ground we stood on when they learned my parents had 10 children (and 30 grandchildren). They addressed my father as Padrino (Godfather). When he pretended that the wonderful veal parmigiana was only so-so, the headwaiter said, “I will kill the cook.”

I was looking forward to seeing Siracusa with Grace, not only for the Greek city’s treasures, but also because it is the birthplace of Santa Lucia, who in our household loomed like a deceased godmother.

The road to Siracusa, on the built-up east coast, took us through an oppressive brown industrial haze. We were relieved to find the city, once surpassed in beauty only by Athens, washed clean by sea breezes.

The original nucleus of the city is Ortygia, where the Duomo (cathedral) exemplifies the revolving-door culture of Sicily. It began as a 5th century BC temple to Athena, was consecrated as a church in the 7th century, used as a mosque by the conquering Saracens soon after, reconsecrated and adorned with mosaics in the Middle Ages, ravaged by an earthquake in the 17th century and renovated in the Baroque style.

There is so much to see, from so many eras, that Siracusa can be quite distracting. One afternoon, exhausted, we dropped into chairs at a cafe on the seafront promenade in Ortygia. Next to us was the Fountain of Arethusa, a freshwater spring.

We sipped our mineral water and read this about Arethusa: While splashing in a river in Greece, the water nymph sensed the river god looking at her with desire. Wanting no part of his advances, she fled to Siracusa, where the goddess Artemis turned her into a spring.

We thought of the story of St. Lucy that we grew up on: A Christian virgin of a noble family in Siracusa, she gouged out her eyes in martyrdom rather than submit to the lust of a pagan who had admired their celestial blue color.

Whichever legend you prefer, pagan or Christian, you have to marvel that Sicily has kept both alive over the centuries. And that all of its cultural heritage is still accessible. Ah, but now I sound just like my father.

NOTE: This article appeared in the Los Angeles Times, 2000. Some of the service info may be dated.

GUIDEBOOK: Savoring Sicily and Its History

Getting there: Alitalia has service from LAX to Palermo with one change of plane. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $785. Major U.S. car rental firms have outlets at Palermo airport.

Where to stay: In Erice, La Casa del Sorriso, 9 Contrada Cappuccini, tel. 011-39-0923-869-136, has beautiful grounds. We paid $45 per night double, which included two meals.

In Taormina, San Domenico Palace, Piazza San Domenico 5; tel. 011-39-0942-23701, fax 011-39-0942-625-506, www.thi.it. Doubles start at $200.

In Siracusa, the Park Hotel, 80 Via Filisto, tel. 011-39-0931-412233, fax 011-39-0931-28096, is modern with friendly, helpful staff. Doubles run about $75.

My sister and I lodged 20 miles outside the city, thriftily if ascetically, at the Benedictine convent in Noto, tel. 011-39-0931-891-255, fax 011-39-0931-894-382. A donation of about $15 per person will suffice.

In Palermo, on an earlier trip, I was as happy as a duchess in a former palazzo, Grand Hotel et des Palmes, Via Roma 398; tel. 011-39-091-58-3933, fax 011-39-091-33-1545. Doubles $125.

In San Vito lo Capo we met my brother and sister, who had rented condos through Sicilian Getaways, 103 Weldon Farm Road, Rowley, MA 01969; tel. (877) 474-2459, www.siciliangetaways.com.

Where to eat: Trattoria Galante, 95 Via Regina Margherita, San Vito lo Capo; local tel. 0923-972007.

The San Vito Bar Café on Via Regina Margherita was a great morning hangout for espresso drinks and pastries.

In Taormina, Ristorant Da Lorenzo, 12 Via Roma; tel. 0942-23480.

In Agrigento, Il Casello, a trattoria and pizzeria with a pleasant outdoor terrace, on Viale Emporium; tel. 0922-26208.

For more information: Italian Government Tourist Board, 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025; tel. (310) 820-2977, fax (310) 820-6357, www.italiantourism.com.

New Orleans yoga after Katrina

Yoga Journal – New Orleans yoga after Katrina

Gold Award, Pacific Asia Travel Association

1993 Gold Award, Pacific Asia Travel Association, Getting Hold of Big Sur (travel story in VIA)

Society of American Travel Writers Western Chapter

1999 Second place, Society of American Travel Writers Western Chapter, Hiking the Chilkoot (travel story in VIA)

James Jones First Novel Fellowship finalist

2000 James Jones First Novel Fellowship finalist for novel, The Last Cannoli, Legas, New York, 2000

2003 and 2004 Katherine Anne Porter Prize for Fiction

2003 and 2004 Katherine Anne Porter Prize for Fiction finalist, for short stories A dying tiger moaned for drink (’03) and Virgin Vision (’04)

Kurt Vonnegut fiction competition

2006 – Third place in the Kurt Vonnegut fiction competition; my short story Plot Theory has been published in the literary journal, North American Review.

Virgin Vision

Virgin Vision (short story) – finalist in the 2005 Katherine Ann Porter fiction contest

Virgin Vision

Each morning, I left my home on Creek Street in the dark. I wanted to crown the Blessed Virgin Mary at the end of the month of May. I was competing against 100 sixth graders, so I would show my worthiness by attending mass before school, through Lent and beyond. I drank deeply from my cup of faith. My daily high came best in the morning hour that led up to the sacrifice of the mass. Weekday mornings, with a handful of other faithful, I got stupid on the body and blood of Christ. On Sundays, I binged on the Holy Name, a rich cocktail of salutations for the One True God. Lord, Jesus, Yahweh, Holy Ghost, Lamb of God Who Take Away the Sins of the World.
I fasted before Communion, as was required by church law, and loved how hunger quickened my intoxication.
One day I skipped along, carrying my hardboiled egg, slice of white toast, and thermos in my book bag. These would dull my hunger after mass so I could sit attentively through Sister Ellen Dominic’s 6th grade lessons.
It was still dark as I headed down Elizabeth Avenue. Beyond Quinn & Boden’s tower to the southeast, the first glint of light appeared. In measured amounts, it became bright and dazzling. Before my eyes it turned into a blinding cross, a molten crucifixion filling the lightening sky. It rose right out of the darkness, a splendorous apparition in the southeast sky above treetops and low buildings of the industrial city of Rahway.
Light-headed, I looked away instantly. I was Saul knocked off his horse. Joan of Arc awaiting instructions. I dared not speak, I only knew how to address God in silent prayer. My hands went limp and my bookbag dropped to the ground. My fingertips rose to my face. It was frighteningly hot.
I was not ready for the Vision. Look what it did to St. Therese, my and many school girls’ patron. It made her delirious with fever, made her body burn with third degree love of God and she went straight to heaven and skipped over stages in life that I still looked forward to. I felt faint, then so fearful I trembled. The flashing moment filled me with all that was now prescribed for me. Everything. And nothing—no music. No more Beatles. No rock n’ roll. No sex, no human touch, no romance. No material things—no clothes, cars, hairdos, nail polish, make-up, no trips down the shore in a new bathing suit—things I craved relentlessly and hadn’t gotten yet because my parents had populated my life with so many siblings. Siblings before me waited their turn for things, siblings born after me waited in line. Siblings next to me at the supper table held their bowls up with mine. They crowded the bathroom when I needed it most. They pounded on the bathroom door when I had finally achieved a moment of solitude.
Although I knew I couldn’t hide from God, I jumped into the hedges inside Wheatena Park and landed on top of my book bag on the soft ground dewy with early spring. My thermos’ insides shattered like eggshells. The ground moved and heaved me upright. The signs were everywhere. A muffled voice said rather impatiently, “Little girl, what in the world are you doing?”
I stood. I pulled the skirt of my plaid uniform down over my knees, too stunned to speak. It was Mr. DeMartino, the school janitor.
“Mr. DeMartino?”
“Madeleine Donitella?”
“What are you doing here?” My voice was shaky from the revelation at hand.
“I’m taking a nap before I go to work. I’m always take a nap a-here. It’s the only place I can getta some peace—usually.” Mr. DeMartino had only seven kids, three fewer than my parents had, but his house was even smaller than ours.
“Oh,” I said. “Well, I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to jump on you, but . ..”
“Yes?”
Something melodious and pleasantly textured in Mr. D’s accent always made me feel safe. “I had a Vision.”
“A vision of what?”
“You know . . . of Christ on the cross, dying for our sins.” I over explained things to Mr. D. the way I did for my grandmother who spoke English the same way as he.
“Yes, he already did that,” Mr. DeMartino said. He crossed himself and said Mio dolce Signor. “Maybe you shoulda tell a whats-his-name . . . Father Murph’.”
Feeling a bit silly and a bit proud, I picked up my bag and said I would think about that. I felt I had something big and I didn’t want to squander it. But as I turned it over in my mind, I thought of the fame I would get. I was more comfortable when I blending in, not standing out. I left Mr. DeMartino to finish his nap in the hedges.
I dared to glance up at the sky again. The dawn was bright pink with no trace of my Vision. But I harbored no doubts that God had tapped me, had singled me out for my devotion to a spiritual life. With every breath, chills prickled my arms and back.
I barely got through school that day. I thought about how my life would have to change. I floated in an invisible bubble at lunch hour in the school yard, unable to hear or partake of my school mates’ chatter. I stood alone in the far corner under the horse chestnut tree. I wished it was a fig tree, like in the Bible. But I knew there wasn’t one fig tree in all of New Jersey.
Being a Bride of Jesus Christ had its allure. Even if I would be part of his harem with thousands of other spiritual wives. I saw myself living in the convent on Esterbrook Avenue. Only my face and hands would protrude from layers of black and white bunting. Never again would I look upon my weak, mortal flesh. I had read the entire series on saints lives and I intended to live like one of them someday when I got older and undesirable. But not yet. I knew what was asked of the saints for the love of God. I hummed O, Mary, we crown thee with blossoms today, Queen of the angels, queen of the May.
“You better come back in the classroom.”
I jumped. It was Larry Chunklin. I had not heard the bell ring. Sister had sent him to lead me back to class. I told her I was praying silently to Jesus.

My mother scolded me hard for breaking the thermos.
“That’s the third one this week. You kids think money grows on trees.” Her voice trailed off.
“I’m sorry, Mom.” I was sorry for my mother who was like the thermos. She was insulated by her durable exterior from my father’s railing need to battle an enemy he hadn’t finished off in World War II. Inside, she must have had a thousand cracks from being mistaken for the enemy.
The twelve of us sat down at the supper table. Everyone was silent—my father’s orders—as my mother dished out the escarole, bean, and meatball stew. My oldest brother said grace and then we were allowed to talk.
My father ripped off a hunk of sesame bread for himself and passed the loaf. “I was in the jungle again,” he told my mother in Italian. He meant in a dream. His eyes were bloodshot because he had just woken up. He was having one of his tired spells because of something that bit him long ago in the tropics.
“I don’t want to discuss you re-enlisting,” she answered firmly in Italian, tearing into the bread. “Tuition, mortgage, and three layaway payments are due end of this week.” They discussed their money problems in their secret tongue and didn’t notice that I hardly ate. But my sister Rena did.
Upstairs as we did homework on our bed, she asked, “What’s happening?” I couldn’t hide from her. I made her promise a thousand deaths slow and painful, if she told anyone. I made her promise that she would never listen to another Beatle song if she told. I threw in that she would have to rub my back every night until the day we died.
“All right, already.”
“I had a Vision.”
“C’mon, quit goofin’. What’s the secret?”
“I’m not goofin’—swear on the Bible and Rubber Soul.”
“Yeah? from heaven?”
“Yeah.”
“What did it look like?”
“Well, it almost blinded me—you know how they say looking upon the Face of God is like looking directly into the sun?”
“But what was it? What did it look like?”
“I’m getting there . . . it was the Holy Cross, all golden and fiery. Bright as Fourth of July sparklers. It filled the sky above me and . . . I’m pretty sure I heard an angels’ choir. It appeared in the morning before Mass.” I may have exaggerated about the choir, but I got my point across.
“What else? Did God speak or do anything?”
“No, not yet, he . . . they never say anything the first time. I’m afraid what it’s going to say.”
“Well, how do you know it’s your Vision—and not meant for someone else?”
“Cheeze, Rena, you don’t see them if they’re not meant for you—remember Bernadette, Father Juan Diego, Joan of Arc? No one believes you at first.”
“I believe you, but why don’t you stop going to mass in the morning?”
“Because. I’ve gone this long and I’m pretty sure Sister is going to pick me to crown Mary and I got a dress all picked out—it’s at Daffy Dan’s.”
“If you get one, I’ll get one.”
“Then, you better come to mass with me tomorrow.”
“Can I just ask Joanna to come?”
“Only if you’ll trade me that new Beatle card—the one with John.”
“Yeah, yeah—I’ll take your Paul one. I like him better anyway.” So did I, but I liked the currency of owning a secret even more.
Next day, Rena and her friend Joanna got up early and walked with me to Mass. When we got near Quinn & Boden, within minutes, it came—the Shining Cross. I fell backward with goose flesh. I tried to find words to describe it to them. But I was speechless and breathless. My stomach churned and I felt nauseous. Then I realized that they were gazing up with rapt looks on their faces.
“You see it?”
“Yeah, it’s really glowing over there,” said Rena.
“Bright as a falling star,” murmured Joanna.
We huddled together scared, waiting to hear a Voice. We would go down in the annals of church history, like the three children of Fatima. But in a few seconds a cloud moved over our Vision and the morning brightened. We walked slowly to St. Mary’s in silence.
Why had they been allowed to see my Vision?
“We can’t keep this to ourselves,” Joanna said at last. Her head of enviable black curls poked out from under her suede hat.
We sat through Mass and I hardly followed the Liturgy. I was so distracted I walked toward the back of the church at Communion. Joanna grabbed the neck of my coat and pointed me toward the altar. When mass was over, we edged our way over to the rectory.
Father Murphy answered the door and just looked at us. His thin white hair was combed back but he looked as if he just woke up. I couldn’t tell if he didn’t want to be bothered or was deep in thought. He was a man of few words. And even his sermons were very garbled, though thankfully short. Before we could speak, his housekeeper came and stuck her head through the cracked door. I heard Strangers in the Night coming from a transistor radio in the room behind her. Someone clicked it off.
“Yes,” said the housekeeper.
“We need to talk to the Pastor,” Joanna said to her.
“You girls follow me,” she said. She brought us into a parlor and made us sit in leather chairs.
Father Murphy, who seemed as tall and imposing as the Quinn & Boden tower, followed us into the parlor and just stood staring down at us. “What is it?”
“Father,” Joanna started. “Madeleine had a Vision and me and her sister Rena can vouch, cause we saw it—but I mean it was her Vision first.” We all bowed our heads as if she had just said the name, Jesus Christ.
“What the he—eck? Where was this vision?” he asked as if we’d reported a mugging or other crime.
I stood up. I wanted to dart out of the room and roll back time to two days earlier. I felt Rena’s and Joanna’s eyes on me and I looked at Father in his floor-length black garb. And I felt the comfort of making full disclosure to a man vested with divine power to transform bread and wine. I sat back down.
“It only happened twice, Father,” I said, “before sunrise, coming up Elizabeth Avenue.”
“All right,” he grumbled and ushered us out the door. I could smell smoke all over his clothes and it added to my upset stomach. He told us to meet him at the corner of Elizabeth and Scott next morning at 6:45 a.m. where he’d pick us up.
That night, Rena and I rubbed backs for an extra long time, then lay awake all night and wondered what we’d gotten ourselves into with Visions from heaven.
“Maybe we should tell Mom and Dad,” said Rena.
“You kidding? Remember last year when we told them about the psychic’s prediction?”
“Oh yeah . . . they thought we were silly.”
“Beatles would be dead and gone now, if we hadn’t called the Plaza and told them not to get on that plane.”

With Joanna, we got to the corner early. Father Murphy pulled up in a big black Cadillac.
“Get in,” he growled.
My nerves are shattered. The very phrase my mother used on Saturday nights after she had bathed all the little kids and collapsed in her rocker to dream of Paris, came into my head. We all squeezed in back and Father crawled up the street. There were no other cars.
He mumbled something several times. Eventually I realized he was saying, “This where?”
“A little farther . . . Father,” I said.
“Get out,” he said when we got to the spot. We stood and waited. Time passed slowly. Father Murphy smoked a cigarette and then another, blowing out a mixture of smoke and gruff sighs. He hummed a song—Strangers in the Night. He cleared his throat and spit once, twice.
And then, we all saw it at the same time, even Father Murphy, who seemed to gasp as the Light appeared. He groaned loudly and said clearly, “Godfrey Daniels. Get in the back seat.” He sped in the direction of the glowing crucifix, which we lost sight of quickly as he turned corners and screeched a few times. When we got to the corner of St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on Main and Esterbrook, he jumped out with the door open and the motor running. He craned his neck back and with his hand extended he waved for us three to look up. We craned our necks and saw that the cross that appeared to us, to everyone who cared to look, was the gold-plated crucifix on the Episcopal church steeple.
“Maybe you girls should learn about fool’s gold,” said Father. “Do you know what fool’s gold is? It’s something that turns to dust as soon as you grab for it.” He shook his head and I thought he laughed, but he might have just cleared his throat.
Rena, Joanna, and I all stared down at our feet. I noticed a small cross, a surveyor’s cross, engraved in the sidewalk, as if to further mock my ignorance and self-deception. Oh, this was the devil’s work, I thought, the serpent of grand illusion. I was inconsolable, I couldn’t even look at Rena or Joanna.
Father took us to the convent on Esterbrook. In the back seat I sat in the middle and Rena and Joanna kept elbowing my side.
“A Vision,” snickered Joanna.
“Straight from heaven,” whispered Rena. “I want my John Lennon card back. I looked down at my hands so they couldn’t see my face.
We waited in the car while Father ran inside to talk to the Mother Superior. He came back and made us go in alone as he screeched off in his Cadillac. Sister Theresa appeared and said, “A little housework is good for the soul, girls.” She beckoned Rena and Joanna to help her sweep and tidy up the sitting room. Her voice and eyes were, as always, gay and sparkly and I thought even if she knew that behind her back everyone called her Tessie or Tstetse Fly, they would remain that way.
Sister Ellen Dominic seemed to float down the long, broad spiral staircase. She stopped at the landing and fumbled for something tucked inside her sleeve—a man’s handkerchief. She looked stern but her voice was soft as she handed it to me. “Wipe your tears, Madeleine. Come up.”
I followed her up to the third floor into a bedroom where she made me sit on a brocade chair. Sister vanished into a big closet, then came out carrying a dress with layers of taffeta and nylon. I knew what it meant .
“Try this on, I’ll be right back.” I took off my jumper and stepped into the dress, which smelled of moth balls. It was pink, the only color I didn’t like. The dress I had picked out to wear to the crowning was blue, dotted Swiss silk. I wanted blue. Blue, like the primary color Mother Mary wore.
This one was so big, it slipped off one shoulder and came to my ankles.
When Sister returned, she smiled at the sight of me and said, “Oh dear.” She collapsed to her knees. Her habit pooled on the floor around her like a dark, forbidding moat. “Well, I knew it would be big, but . . . ” She began to pin the hem with straight pins. The dress, which seemed destined for a girl more endowed than I, made me feel even smaller than I was. I was mortified, the way Gloria Horvac must have been when she walked back in the classroom from the lavatory with her jumper stuck in her underpants. I was wretched. I belonged in a convent.
“Sister, I . . . I . . . didn’t mean to have false gods before me. . . ?”
She pulled up the dress’ shoulders and pinned them. “I know.”
“So, I don’t have to confess . . .”
“Of course not. You know what it takes to make a sin. Examine your conscience.”
“Yes, Sister. . . does this dress mean I’m the chosen one?”
“You are the one chosen—to crown Mary.”
“Thank you, Sister.”
“Humm-hummm,” she said through three straight pins held between her lips. “You understand what your vision was?”
“The crucifix on St. Paul’s.”
“How glorious—it caught the rising sun, as it always does this time of year, as Earth tilts on her axis heading toward the spring equinox. Did you notice the vision came a little earlier each morning?”
“Sort of . . . I guess.”
She didn’t belabor the subject. “We’ll just take some tucks in here,” she said, pulling the dress sides together. “So it’s not a perfect fit, but I think your mother will be happy we can save her some money. Don’t you think so, Madeleine?”
“Yes, Sister.”
I was not the least bit excited. The very hope and anticipation of being the chosen one were gone so suddenly I grieved their loss. I stared through a lacy curtain, down into the school playground. I saw the horse chestnut tree and wondered if working toward being saved was more intoxicating than salvation itself?

Attending daily mass felt like a layaway payment for merchandise I didn’t really need anymore. But I went the rest of May by myself. I saw the shining cross one more time before the sun no longer torched it for the season. It was no less magnificent even with my knowledge of its earthly origins.
The last Sunday in May, my parents drove me to St. Mary’s Church.
“You remember to put in a word to the Virgin on behalf of your needy parents and all their children,” said my father. His chuckle lightened my heart, heavy with anxiety about being the focus of attention.
“We’ll make an offering for the conversion of Russia and light a candle in Mary’s honor after,” said my mother. She eyed me critically in the backseat. “Whoever wore that dress last year must’ve been twice your size—too bad we couldn’t afford a new one for you.”
All the other sixth grade girls were lined up double file in the vestibule of the church. I took my place at the end of the long procession. Two boys in all white suits, ties, and bucks walked behind me. One carried the hand-crafted crown of pink tea roses on a white satin pillow. We stood there still and silent, our folded gloved hands pointing toward heaven, as the organ played and a soprano sang the Ave Maria. At the start of O, Mary, we crown thee, the procession started down the middle aisle. The parishioners stood in their pews and sang along.
The girls marched in the trail of frankincense to their seats in the nave’s front pews while I and the two boys slowly marched to the side altar. We stopped and stood before Mary, cloaked in all her blue virgin glory. I waited for my cue from the faithful—the song’s refrain, Queen of the angels, Queen of the May—then picked up the crown. Slowly I made my way up the first two marble steps. On the third and last, the hem of the dress caught in my white patent leather shoe heel. Before God, Mary, and the congregation, I tripped. An inebriate, drunk on an overdose of Catholicism, I lost total motor control. Mary’s crown of tea roses flew out of my hands.
But Father Murphy, instead of letting the altar boy pick up the crown, strode over and picked it up with his consecrated hands. He looked at me, detached and serene. I looked up at him. I glanced over to my parents in the front pew. My father always sang louder than anyone—I could almost see down his wide dark gullet. I heard at once, in the hymns roaring in the church, all the fury of hell and the grandeur of heaven and I knew that both realms were at hand. And at that moment, as Father’s hands brushed mine, I knew I could always see things two ways and that might be the only power I would ever have. I felt absolved of my flawed nature, the way I felt forgiven my imperfections when my mother’s voice trailed off in resignation, or when my father excused his kids their ignorance of what it was like to see your buddy’s brains blown out on the battle field.
The joy and purity of Father’s gold-embroidered white garments were transmitted to me, a child of God. I sang as I placed the crown on Mary’s surprisingly small head. It fit perfectly.

Plot Theory

Plot Theory, 3rd place winner in the annual Kurt Vonnegut fiction contest, appeared in the 2006 summer issue of the North American Review

PLOT THEORY

Plots only tend to exist. We cannot predict with 100 percent certainty where they will go, what they mean. The observer must always be taken into account. We are still seeking the grand unified theory (GUT)—how the plot’s irreducible particles—the character (also referred to as the quaracter)—are united into one smooth, seamless universe.

I. Blood
Robbie sat on the edge of his lower bunk and picked at the strings of his new guitar. They were made of a wild animal’s sinew. The guitar’s compact body was covered in smooth mottled brown and beige pelt. It was a souvenir from Kenya. Roxanne, his father’s sister, had just brought it home to him.
“The tribe that made it says the animal’s spirit sings secrets to you when you play it,” said Aunt Roxie.
Robbie’s father guffawed. “Yeah? Maybe it’ll sing the secret to winning the Jules Lansberg Guitar Competition, Friday night.”
Robbie had started plucking the strings of his father’s old guitar when he was six and to his parent’s astonishment had instinctively known the chords to their favorite song, Let it be. He was in sixth grade now. Bill and Sue Baxter were proud of their “Little Segovia.” Robbie strummed Let it be on the animal hide and sinew guitar and sang along in his choirboy voice.
As he plucked and sang, Robbie thought of the handsome knife Roxanne had given his older brother, Joe. Joe had no musical talent, Bill and Sue said. He was deep in sleep, snoring like a drainpipe, in the top bunk where he had conked out without even eating supper. He had played hard at soccer practice with his eight grade class.
Robbie’s new guitar was chintzy—it twanged like rubber bands. It was just a trinket. Not like Joe’s knife. He stared longingly at the new knife in its leather holster on their dresser. Their father had recently given Joe a Swiss Army knife and told Robbie he was too young to have one yet.
“I don’t want you messing with anything that might harm those magical fingers,” Bill told Robbie.
Robbie put down the lightweight guitar. He picked up his brother’s new knife and held it in his open palm. It weighed more than the guitar. He slipped the primitive weapon out of its sheath. It was as long as his forearm. Robbie ran his fingers down the smooth edge of the blade. Then he ran the blade perpendicular to his thumbnail to test its sharpness. He’d seen his father do this to a just-sharpened meat knife.
Robbie sliced easily through the clay figure of a dinosaur he had made a few months ago. Molding clay kept his fingers nimble, his guitar teacher told him. He sliced through the dinosaur again and again and on the fourth slice he sliced through his right thumb. His blood ran generously onto the white scarf on his dresser.
“Ohhhh!” he squealed. Only Joe’s watery nasal snore answered him.
Robbie held his thumb to his chest and stained his T-shirt.

Bill Baxter glanced at his puny son as he ran downstairs where Bill was staring at the T.V. He wasn’t watching, he told Sue, just relaxing.
“Dad.”
“What’re you doing awake, Robbie?” Bill said without taking his eyes off the set.
“Dad. Look.”
“Jeeze-us!” said Bill. He jumped up.
“How’d you do this, Robbie?”
“I was looking at Joe’s new knife that Aunt Roxie gave him.”
“You did this looking?” said his father. He pulled Robbie by the arm over to the kitchen sink.
“Sue!” Bill yelled, “Sue, get up, we need you!”
Robbie’s mother came out of her bedroom seconds later in her bathrobe and stared in silence at her son’s blood running down the drain.
“Your son,” said Bill, “tried to perform a thumb-ectomy on himself.”
“Oh dear,” Sue said in a low voice. She grabbed a clean white kitchen towel and wrapped it around Robbie’s thumb, squeezing hard.
“He’ll need stitches,” she said.
“No shit, Sherlock,” Bill said softly, having said this hundreds of times before to Sue. He clicked off the Tonight Show and pulled his car keys out of his pants pocket. “I’ll take him to E.R. Get me the insurance cards, Sue, I’ll pull the car out.” Sue had actually done this before he ordered her.

Robbie’s father spoke only once during the ten-minute drive to the hospital—”Shouldn’t have touched your brother’s knife, Segovia. You know what it means.”
“Yeah. I’m sorry, Dad,” said Robbie. He knew he’d have to drop out of the twenty-fifth annual Jules Lansberg competition.
The emergency ward was crowded, but no one in the waiting area looked close to death. Bill filled out forms and gave his insurance number and I.D. at the admitting desk. It took about two minutes before a friendly nurse named Cathy, who smiled a lot, took Robbie and his father to a private, brightly lit room. She sterilized Robbie’s cut and wrapped gauze around it tightly to slow the bleeding. She made Robbie sit on a cot and said, “Dr. Hayes will be with you a minute.”
Dr. Hayes came in the room and sat on a low round stool and sighed. He looked very young and tired. He took off his glasses, rubbed his eyes, and put the glasses back on. He smiled feebly at Robbie and said, “Let’s see that wound, son.” He unwrapped the thumb. “Looks deep, but clean.”
“He’ll need stitches, won’t he?” asked Bill.
“Hmmm, yes. Probably six or eight.”
Dr. Hayes said that to be safe he would give Robbie a tetanus shot. He went to the stainless steel counter and prepared a hypodermic and syringe.
Robbie didn’t like needles, so he looked away when Dr. Hayes rubbed his arm with alcohol. Just as he felt the needle coming out he flinched.
“OOUUCHHH!” yelled Dr. Hayes, bolting upright, “I stuck myself!”
A pin prick of blood bubbled through his surgical glove from the fatty pad of skin below the thumb area of his left hand.
“Has your son been tested for HIV?” Dr. Hayes asked Bill quickly.
“Ohhhhh . . . no. Not to worry, I’m sure he’s negative. He’s skin and bones, but he’s a healthy pup.”
“I’ve never done that,” said Dr. Hayes, shaking his head, peeling off the gloves as if they were on fire. He swabbed his wound with alcohol. He exhaled long and hard.
Bill said, “You’ve got to be more careful, I guess.”
“You’re right, with all the blood-borne disease.”
“Consider this a wake-up call,” Bill said.

Robbie thought that his father talked to the doctor the way he talked him and Joe. Nurse Cathy came back in the room and anesthetized his thumb as Dr. Hayes got ready to stitch. Robbie made sure he kept very still as the doctor sewed and bandaged his cut. Dr. Hayes seemed much more relaxed than when he entered the room. He ruffled Robbie’s hair and said, “Guess we’re blood brothers now, you and me.”
Robbie had not missed a day of playing his guitar since he was six. He regretted missing the competition that Friday. He was unable to do much with his heavily bandaged thumb, so he played soccer with his brother Joe. From the start he was much better at the game than Joe. Even after his thumb began to heal and he could play a little guitar, he continued to play soccer. He became his team’s most valued player in a few months’ time. Joe lost interest in soccer altogether. He got a job delivering morning newspapers and went to bed so early, his parents and brother hardly saw him.
Robbie picked up his guitar less and less until it was only once in a great while that he sat down with it to strum Let it be.
Bill said to Sue, “Let’s not push him. He’s just going through a stage.” Sue nodded. They said things to Robbie like: “When you start playing again, maybe you should master the Scarlatti piece” or “At next year’s Jules Lansberg competition, you can bone up on Prelude in E, you remember that piece?”
But here it was going on a year since Robbie had sliced his thumb. It was clear Robbie was not going back to guitar any time soon. One day, his parents asked him if he’d care to go to a classical concert at St. Mark’s Episcopal Church. They’d heard some excellent local talent was playing, including a guitarist who was invited to compete in the Jules Lansberg. Robbie shrugged yes.
“Sure, so long’s I don’t miss soccer practice,” he said.
Bill, Sue, and Robbie found seats in the first row of St. Mark’s. A stringed quartet played, followed by the guitar soloist. The soloist played masterfully, including Prelude in E and the piece by Scarlatti. Bill kept staring at the man, whose touch was as magical and otherwordly as Robbie’s once was. Finally, at intermission Bill checked the program brochure and recognized the name and the man.
“Dr. Hayes?” said Bill striding over to him in the lobby with Robbie in tow. “Remember? Me and my son, Robbie? You sewed his thumb up last year.”
“Oh, sure!” he smiled broadly. He no longer wore glasses. “How’s that thumb?”
“O.K.,” said Robbie. He held up his thumb.
“I didn’t know you played such fine guitar, Dr. Hayes. I guess it’s a way of relaxing after a day—or night—at the hospital.”
“Oh, I no longer practice medicine. I hadn’t touched a guitar since I was knee-high to a grasshopper—until about a year ago. I took to it like a . . . well, grasshopper to grass, I guess you could say.” He brushed Robbie’s head lightly and added, “Right, buddy?”

II. Choices
Are all shrink offices this fancy? This one’s walls are periwinkle blue with nice framed paintings of care-free primitive animals and figures. Rob, your tall collegiate type, sinks into his big over-sized leather recliner and I sink into my cushy cloth-covered sofa. I notice the many interesting stone and metal sculptures on the various tables. I’m paying Rob to listen.
Where’d I go wrong? Where I grew up nobody went to shrinks.
Now they call them the therapist and it’s like something you put on the shopping list with the milk and bread.
Even me, here in mid-life, my list: return blouse to A&S, get oil changed, see shrink.
How times have changed.
Back when I was growing up shrinks all had Jewish names. We called them psychiatrists. It wasn’t something people talked about, except in low tones. The only ones who went were the filthy rich. I never thought I’d see the day I would go.
But then I never thought I’d get divorced.
I didn’t need a head doctor, not like those loony, rich people back when. But some of my best friends, who aren’t exactly crazy or rolling in the dough, see shrinks. Jeeze, they talk about a session like they just had lunch with their grandmother.
“Listen, Lianne, it’s nothing to be ashamed of,” says my friend since high school, Rosetta Gallioti, “It’s like paying a person to pose as your best friend and keep their mouth shut while you do the talking.” Rosetta’s not divorced, just “in the woods.” On the rocks, you ask me.
“Why do we have pets, Rosetta?” I say, “Don’t ask me to think about this too long, because I might change my mind about paying someone to do what we all should do for each other.”

My third visit and the earth has not moved under my feet. Nor have I been blinded by the light. I’m glad of that. What’s to get in an uproar over? Marriages end all the time these days.
Rob, the shrink, has no -stein or -berg, just a -ham, in his last name. He’s not even a doctor. I call him by his first name, not Mr. Dunham which sounds more like a coach or high school teacher. I found him in a directory at the hospital where I work as a dietitian. You’d never guess his office is connected to a hospital, what with the fine leather, oak, and mahogany furnishings, the art and sculpture. Real jazzy.
I liked Rob right off. As I do most strangers. What a windbag I am first time. Forty-five minutes into our first session I realize I barely left him headspace to ask questions. Well, he could stop me, but what are friends and shrinks for? I’m paying for this and shouldn’t apologize but I do. I thank him kindly—it’s my upbringing. I tear myself away from the sofa that’s swallowed me and give him the $25. Blew me away when I learned my insurance actually covers this stuff—two-thirds of Rob’s fee.
When I hit the street I feel like I’ve just had a good jog and a shower. Spent and clean. That’s how I feel after telling a stranger about the wrong turns my life’s taken in the past twentysome years.
Furthermore, Rob seems to relax more when I talk. It gets uncomfortably quiet if I don’t say something. So I go on as much for his sake as for mine, about my marriage of 20 years. How it ended—it was my idea. Sure, other men caught my eye, but we had none of your knock-down-drag-out sex or money problems. I just wanted more and more time with girlfriends, less with him. The kids were gone. What’d we have in common? Felt like the old joke—didn’t we go to different high schools together?
I gotta hand it to Rob, he did listen. He’d ask a good question every now and then. He’d remember little details from day one, like Marv, my ex’s name. Why did I think the marriage to Marv fell apart, he’d ask.
Maybe I got married too young, I’d say. I want to go back and mine some of the gold of youth I put on hold back when I was only 19.
Rob said Hmmm, a lot and sat with his fingers entwined in his lap. He never jumped to conclusions for one so young, at least ten years my junior. He never pointed fingers or got judgmental on me. God knows I felt my share of guilt. He just did like Rosetta said. He listened.
I’m not one to squander $25, but this seemed to be worth it. He could see I didn’t have any mental problems to speak of, so he’d let me run at the mouth for 50 minutes. After half dozen sessions, he didn’t even have to push my on-button. Clock’s ticking, I’m off to the races. The more I tell Rob, the more I find I have left to say. I’m sure a bottomless pit of gripes.

One session I notice his sculptures are gone. He’s lent them to a friend, he says, and how’s it going with Marv’s calling. He doesn’t bad-mouth Marv. Makes me feel good—like I gave an unbiased picture of the ex.
A few sessions later, I start out, “Rob, what’s happened to the walls, they are stripped to the bone?” He’s moving offices, he waves my question off, and urges me to go on talking. Which I do, no problem. So, next session when his chairs are all gone and we sit on stools, I don’t even ask, I assume they’ve been moved to his new office. Before the end of the session, two workers come in to move the remaining tables and desk. I find this disruptive, but Rob seems to shut them out. And listen like a champ. He even goes a minute past the so-called therapeutic hour and reminds me that I have choices in life. That’s my problem, choices up the kazoo. I laugh. But his voice shakes on the word choices. He feels for me, this guy.
“You’re right, Rob.” I yell over the screeching furniture. “For once, I’m following my inner guidance.” I give him a check for $25 and think what a bargain.
Down in the street, I sigh. Cleaned out of cobwebs.
The following week, I have to break my appointment with Rob at the last minute to take my daughter to a doctor appointment. I call Rob, but keep getting a recording that says his phone is disconnected. I can’t be inconsiderate, I tell my daughter. We have to drive by his office, so I can tell him. He’s not there, so I slip a note under his door.
Next week, he meets me at his locked office door and says he never got my note, but not to worry, he didn’t show up either. He says he’s going through a divorce, too, but I don’t want to pry and ask questions. I tell him about the recording saying his phone is disconnected. He laughs and says without the slightest bit of shame, “That’s a phone company euphemism—I didn’t pay my bill.”
Then, he asks would I mind having our session in his car in Roosevelt Park across the street. We sit in his car and I talk just as easy. He listens just as well. Who needs a fancy office?
We meet in Rob’s car in the park next few appointments and then one time he’s late. He arrives on foot, so we sit on the park bench. I talk, he listens. I forget to pay him $25 before he leaves.
Next session—if you could still call it that—he’s on foot again, doesn’t say a word about me owing him. We sit and I’m telling him I’m having a good week, how it feels good to be single, when I spy my friend Rosetta on her daily jog by the lake. I yell, “Hey, Rosett’, come join us!”
“Rob, the shrink,” I say, “meet Rosetta, the high school friend.” Even Rob has a side-splitting laugh at this. Does him a world of good.
Next thing, he’s telling Rosetta and me about his messy divorce and we’re telling him from the wife’s point of view what to expect.
This is just as well by me seeings how I am not a mental case and have spoke my piece Like I say, this is something we should all do for each other.

III. Flesh
“Don’t get mad, get even,” my relatives on my mother’s side would always advise. How many of their enemies would vanish or die mysteriously? Even as kids, my twin sister, Erica, and I had an unspoken agreement to do better: “Let’s not get mad nor even.”
But take my roommate, Margaret Atkins, a good friend of my former roommate, Lorraine who just moved into the spacious Victorian flat I’ve rented for three years. Margaret is a college professor, enjoys good conversation, and likes the same movies as I do, but she’s a strict vegetarian—absolutely no flesh. I warned her beforehand, “I eat meat.”
“No problem,” Margaret said. “We can just keep our food separate.”
“Fine,” I said. “Lorraine and I did that.”
But a month after moving in, Margaret fretted one evening. “Lindsay, I almost fainted when I opened the refrigerator and saw this coil of raw meat in a poor animal’s intestines.”
“You mean the sausage I got at Falletti’s?”
“Please. No euphemisms—it was dead flesh inside a once-living being’s gut.”
In fact, I had been a vegetarian myself for three years when I first moved to San Francisco. I had thought that purifying my body completely of animal flesh would also purify my mind of all its vengeful thought. But after a while I could no longer resist the meatballs and sausage I’d grown up on and that my grandmother would make for me when I visited her in New Jersey.
Margaret pressed, “Do me the favor of sparing me such sights.” Spiteful words were on the tip of my tongue, A little meat do you some good, I wanted to say, you broomstick.
But I corrected the urge with, “Margaret, I’m sorry for being so insensitive. I’ll be more careful.” Her pale face relaxed.
“Thank you,” she said, “and I’d appreciate you not using my pots and pans anymore.” I was shocked. We’d agreed she could use my dishes and I, her pots. But I held my composure, remembering my uphill struggle with cold-blooded revenge.
Next morning, though, I caught Margaret’s black cat, Nero, up on the kitchen table. His glassy eyes glared at me. My hand automatically raised over my head, ready to whack the daylights out of him, when I remembered my blood and my sister Erica’s face. Don’t get mad or even.
Margaret began to claim more and more space in our flat. After three months, she decided that my front bedroom with the fireplace was bigger and worth more money than her quiet, sunny back room.
“It would really be more fair if you either pay more rent or let me have the office to myself,” she pushed. I moved my books and files out of the office. Then, she told me I had stored enough of my stuff on the back porch and to leave the rest of the space for her.
But Margaret was pleasant and agreeable when Erica wanted to bring Grandma Colucci out for a visit from New Jersey.
“Immediate family is always welcome,” she said.
On the second day of Erica’s and Grandma’s visit we were having lunch with two of my friends in the dining room. Margaret came in just as we were done and I invited her to join us.
“Too bad all that’s left are a few pimentos,” said Erica to Margaret. “Grandma fixed a wonderful tuna salad.”
Margaret was silent. Her thin lip twitched.
“What’d you put in it, Mrs. Colucci?” asked my friend, Toby.
“I’m a no putta nothin’ special,” Grandma said, “just a red pep’, lemon juice, olive oil, little bit fresh parsley.”
“Delicious,” said Toby. Margaret got up and left the room.
Later that afternoon, Erica was out walking and Grandma was sitting in the sofa crocheting an afghan for me. I was reading the newspaper. Margaret came in and said, “Can I talk to you?
“Sure.”
She nodded toward Grandma, so I said, “Oh, don’t worry, Grandma hardly understands English unless you speak loud right in her face. I’ll show you,” I continued, looking at Margaret, “Grandma has cooties, don’t you, Gram?” My grandmother just kept clacking her needles.
Margaret started, “I’m horrified. You were celebrating the death of a fish, this afternoon.”
“What about all those vegetables you kill?” I blurted out, impatience welling up.
“You know there’s no comparison. What kind of friend are you?”
I wanted to tell her, “The kind who’s sorry your name is on the lease.” But, I knew that finding roommates who were neat and paid the rent on time was difficult. And there was the dark vindictive blood. So, I said, “Margaret, I’m so sorry.”
She added, “I’m especially sensitive about fish. When I was 12 I almost died from it. We discovered I have a rare allergy to even tiny amounts of fish oil. I get a rash and my throat closes up. I was rushed to the hospital last time I ate it.”
“How awful! Tell you what. This Thursday, you invite four of your friends over and I’ll have Grandma make us a splendid Italian meal with absolutely no meat in it.”
“That would be really nice.” She hugged me and left the room.
Swell, I thought. Trying to get Grandma to cook a meal without meat would be like trying to get the Godfather to go straight. To skip flesh even at one meal was too reminiscent of the poverty she’d left behind in Sicily. Grandma’s crocheting needles clacked loudly as I pondered my dilemma. Then she put down her needles, turned to me, and said, “Lindsay, what it is, a cootie?”

I took Grandma and Erica to the country north of San Francisco and lost Gram’ to a field of wild fennel. She hadn’t seen it growing so rampantly since she left Sicily. She turned her print dress into a sack and gathered tender shoots to cook with spaghetti and meatballs on Thursday.
In the field, I tried, “Grandma, my friends are vegetarians. Could you make the spaghetti sauce with no meat tomorrow night?”
“Ahhggg, Lindsay, God make a meat for flavor. How bout I putta spare rib just?”
“Heavens no!” Margaret would have a cow.” In desperation I pleaded, “Grandma, my roommates and her friends . . . it’s against their religion to eat meat,”
“Ahhggg…ma cucu…OK.” She smiled. “We putta this.”
She handed me a fragrant bundle of fennel greens.
On Thursday, Grandma started the sauce early and our flat smelled of garlic browning in olive oil. The fennel had soaked overnight in salted water to make it tender and sweet. Margaret let Grandma use her heavy-bottom pan to toast the bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese in butter and olive oil to sprinkle on top of the spaghetti. I set the table for nine of us.
Margaret and her friends were delighted. They had never seen spaghetti mounded with succulent greens sauteed and seasoned with the bread crumb-cheese mixture. Despite its lack of meat, the sauce had great depth.
We all sat back stuffed. Grandma and I cleared the table for dessert. Inside the kitchen, I hugged her and said, “Granny, that was so delicious! You worked a miracle.”
“Eh, sure,” she grinned. “I just putta a little can of anchov’…”
“Of what?”
“Salt-a fish.” She pulled from the garbage, a small, oblong tin, its razor-sharp lid rolled back around a key. “I mash-a with a fork right in the oil. No even taste ‘em, give a nice flavor.”
Out of the corner of my eye I could see Margaret passing down the hall to her bedroom, saying, “I feel a little funny. I’m going to rest a little bit before dessert.”
I was unable to move. But Grandma seemed to have everything under control.

IV. Fahquahs
Korinne was late for the author series at the Phoenix Hotel. She eased quietly into the royal-blue carpet of the lobby where local authors read from debut works weekly. She mainly went for the free wine and hors d’oeuvres and had ceased hoping to be dazzled by any new writer whose work she might try to excerpt in her magazine, The Fog Index. She had heard dozens of not-to-be-missed writers. And none hit her literary G-spot.
There was a bottomless supply of them in San Francisco, it was reported in the daily paper—four out of five wait staff were writers who were published or soon to be. The current author was some woman who had been in a writing group with the famous author Amy Thompson who then wrote the book’s only blurb.
“I write each chapter as if it were a letter to my aunt,” the author said. “I’m actually a better speaker than I am a writer,” she laughed.
Korinne, an editor who had no interest in writing, had always thought the opposite would be true for writers. She switched her weight from leg to leg on the carpet, which felt like packed sand. In the hushed lobby wing, she felt a man turn his head to look at her so abruptly, she felt an air wave like when a truck passed her on the street. In the dimmed lighting, she felt his gaze fix on her. She didn’t want to make eye contact.
Work had been so tiresome. Meeting after meeting where her brain was cannibalized, and felt drained of its precious contents for the edification of the editor on the magazine. The man’s gaze, now on its third turn of his head with little air booms each time was annoying. She didn’t want to look at him yet. She focused on the speaker who was describing the research she had done of eighteenth-century Turkey.
The author’s talk neared its end, the room applauded, and arms flew up for the question and answer period. The same arms always went up first—there was a clutch of groupies who attended the event no matter who the writer was. Korinne called them the “fahquahs,” or FAQs—frequently asking the questions. How long did it take you to write the book? How did you find a publisher? Is writing easy for you?
Korinne couldn’t hear the question. But she knew from the answer being given it was, “Do you work from an outline?” The author expounded on how the purity of her experience combined with the impurity of forms she had chosen had shaped the book. “What I mean is that my work is not plot- but character-driven,” she explained. Korinne noticed how she said “my work” as if she had a whole body of it, which apparently she didn’t.
Korinne could stand it no more. She turned her head. She didn’t recognize the man. He looked to be younger than her by at least 20 years, putting him in his mid-twenties. He wore a suit and tie—a financial district analyst or stock broker, no doubt, who had wandered over for the wine, women, and hors d’oeuvres.
As the crowd rustled and relaxed, he approached Korinne who smiled awaiting an explanation.
“Hello . . . ” he said his mouth quivering as he squeezed her hand in greeting. She squeezed back. “My name is Lawrence.”
“Korinne,” she said. “Do I know you?”
“No, I just noticed you . . . you’re quite beautiful . . . You look like S-s-sigourney . . . you know the actress . . .”
“Weaver,” said Korinne. “Yes, I’ve heard that before, but she’s got a good foot on me in height.”
“It doesn’t matter – you’ve got a lot more she doesn’t have. . . ”
“How sweet,” Korinne said. She waited for the punchline—he had to be joking. Korinne tuned in to someone asking the author how much of her story really happened, but she tuned out for the answer.
“Well, thanks for the compliment,” she said to Lawrence and turned to move away.
“Can I give you my phone number,” he asked quickly. Korinne waited impatiently for him to find paper and pen. Scanning the room, she noted plenty of blondes, tall ones with fine sculpted features, blue eyes, and translucent skin. Many were even younger than Korinne.
“You sure we haven’t met before?” she asked again.
“I’d remember. You’re beautiful.”
“All right already,” she said.
One of the fahquahs pressed the author for exactly which parts of the book were real and which parts imagined. The author became visibly frustrated and said, “Separating the imagined from the fact would be like trying to separate the sand and cement particles from a block of dried concrete.”
“Who are you?” asked another fahquah who always drank too much free wine. “Who you are in the book is what I want to know.”
Silence enveloped the room.
“I make a cameo appearance as the dog in chapter five.” Loud laughter. “Next question.”
Korinne gave him Lawrence her card. She wasn’t sure why. Maybe he had plot potential. He drifted off into the crowd. She looked at the paper. There was no punchline on it, just inscrutable block print and seven blocky numbers. He had dark hair and light skin, nice green eyes. Black Irish, she decided even as she noticed his last name, McGreevy.
“What does your family think?” someone asked. Obviously, the author had been asked it before.
“They’re all still talking to me, I didn’t give the farm away. Yet. Next question.”
Korinne wondered if Dorothy Parker, Collette or Virginia Wolf had to answer such questions. On her way out, she glanced at a few blurb lines on the poster announcing the author:
“ . . . amazingly . . . fresh voice . . .”
”The story . . . needed to be told . . .”
“Alchemical, magical, tantalizingly . . . transformative [tale] . . . ”
Korinne left knowing only that it was a tale about a Muslim and a Jew and about transcending ancient historical aversion. The presentation didn’t touch her G-spot, but she bought a copy of the book anyway.

“I’m much older than you Lawrence,” she said. They met for lunch after he called her.
“I know,” he said. He looked worried.
“Well cheer up, that’s the good news,” she said.
“I’m holding out for better,” he said.
She studied him. “Jump out of a plane with me,” she tested.
“You mean go sky diving?”
“Yes.”
“O.K.”
He asked few questions and didn’t follow any leads for conversation she threw him. This is going nowhere. She was distracted by thoughts of work.
“How do I know you’re not a G-man?” she said. “Or a serial killer? A stalker?”
“You’re beautiful,” He answered.
“Snap out of it,” she said.
“I don’t want to.”
Part of her didn’t want him to, but she knew nothing stood still. “You know I have a partner, Rob is his name. He’s older than me.”
“He’s lucky.” He barely touched his Caesar salad. He sat with his hands folded in his lap.
“He’s a doctor in ER—he works long hours.”
“Good.”
She finished her Portobello sandwich and said, “I have to get back to work.” On the way up Van Ness Avenue, she collected excerpts of dialogue between people walking by. . . She’s 68 and sleeping with a man of 42…she better start acting her age . . . If I want to keep a bondage table in my kitchen, it’s my business. Stories lurked everywhere, parts of them. Once she believed she could piece them together into an awesome masterpiece. Now, this was her favorite wool-gathering exercise—collecting lines in her head for books she would never write. An old woman collecting string, corks, buttons—parts that had no meaning—or was it self-contained meaning?— out of context. She read avidly for her job as city editor for the monthly Fog Index. The more books she read the less she cared to write. There were too many books out there, too many being written. All she cared about now was the perfect excerpt, the self-contained piece of writing that said it all, the work that was bigger than its creator, the cork that needed to fill no bottle neck, the button that needed to close no shirt, the keystone, the Rosetta Stone for the entire piece of work. She found it less and less and wondered if she had ever really found it.
Maybe she was tapped out.

Over the next few weeks, Korinne saw Lawrence at the Phoenix Hotel author series. They exchanged the same clipped conversation—Last Year at Mariendbad style—even as she sized up with one ear the new books being presented—a memoir about an affair in the Czech Republic; one about traveling to Swaziland and being kidnapped for a year; one by a woman who went to a country she knew nothing about, learned everything she could in three months, and wrote a whole book on it.
The next time she saw Lawrence, he told her, “I’m scared . . . “
“Of what?”
“I mean I can’t sky dive, sorry, I’m too scared.”
It took her a few seconds to recall the fleeting impulse that made her suggest that plot point. “Don’t sweat it, Lawrence,” she said. She had sky dived once and had low interest in doing it again.

“You know, Lawrence, youth is currency,” Korinne said after they had made love and were lying together in the silence that always prevailed between them unless she broke it. It was their third time. They met in the same room on the top floor of the Phoenix. She paid for it. He was between jobs. She told him it was to be only about sex. She needed a thickening plot in her life.
He exhaled, exasperated.
“You’re squandering it,” she added. She sat up to look out at the view of the city. She saw the bridge studded in yellow lights. She was relieved the fog was returning to home shores after three days of being at sea.
“What if I don’t know?” he said.
“Then, I don’t trust you.” She did trust him enough to believe him that he was HIV-negative, had no STDs, and had a vasectomy. He also had no job, no money, some occasional sales work, a hazy past, parents he didn’t like. He was a blank sheet. Political and intellectual discussions were impossible. He was a dial tone. She couldn’t get a party line on most subjects. Sexually, he was adequate. Mainly, he was a snatch of dialogue, in 3-D, that was strewn her way—she could make what she wanted of him.
She remembered the book a few weeks back presented at the Phoenix—what was it?—Sex and the Neo-Cortex? By a sexologist who had studied orgasms and sexual fantasies in men and women. The author had proposed that sexual pleasure takes place in the neo-cortex of the brain. What was it the drunken fahquah had asked? So it doesn’t matter who or what I sleep with—the pleasure’s all in my head? And the answer . . . Korinne recalled that the answer was Not quite, it does matter . . . but she couldn’t remember why. Maybe it didn’t matter.

“This will be our last time,” Korinne told Lawrence one evening a year after they had met. He exhaled and threw the covers off. He folded his arms over his chest. She put an arm over him to comfort him.
“You knew it,’ she said.
“Yes,” he said. His head turned sharply and she winced from the tidal wave of air. He gave nothing but air to go on.
“Rob and I are going to get married—in Rome. Some package deal he came across.” If Lawrence asked she would have told him it wasn’t that she was getting married. It was the lack of suffering, the slackness in their connection. She could make him suffer, but she wasn’t in for that. She had slept with Lawrence nearly as frequently as she endured the author series in the lobby below them. His body fluids were as free of germ and seed as the flow of words she absorbed with one ear. Books passed through the hushed lobby wing on every subject, from how the resting pose in yoga is the key to health to—unbelievably!—a novel about a character who kept a bondage table in his kitchen. She admitted to herself in the beginning that she had hoped that Lawrence would make her forget about the perfect excerpt. Then she saw that he wouldn’t even be a plot point. She played the “its-only-about-sex” card. It was all she had. As one-dimensional as a dime novel. True pornography. Spiritually defeating.
Lawrence showered and dressed in his perfect suit—ever projecting the illusion of someone important. He hugged her and made his final exit.

Korinne finished her little prepared talk and put down her notes and looked around the room. She had hardly used the notes. She had always known what she would say. She had spoken as extemporaneously to the Phoenix crowd as she had to her colleagues at the Fog Index, which she left three months earlier. She smiled and awaited the fahquahs.
“How long did it take you to write the book?”
“Three months,” Korinne answered.
“How did you find a publisher?”
“Ask my agent—Ellie Shorter—she’s in L.A.”
“Is writing easy for you?”
“Most of the time no.”
“Do you work from an outline?”
“Not for this book.”
“Is The Hit Woman true or based on a true story?”
“Neither.”
“Who are you?”
“I’m Korinne Devreaux.” Laughter.
Korinne took three more of the usual questions and was ready to wrap it up. She saw her host moving toward the mic to help her when the woman who drank too much waved her hand and started talking loudly. Everyone turned to look at her red face, its nose with broken blood vessels, its eyes glassy as a calm sea.
“One more,” she shouted. “Just one more.” Everyone waited. “Hey, I just want to say I think . . . . genius. You are a genius. ”
“Thank you,” said Korinne.
“And. . . I’m not done.”
Everyone froze. For a moment it seemed that the woman would suck the remaining oxygen right out of the room, the way Korinne’s character had sucked the oxygen right out of her plot potential— though no one, not even the glowing critics, noticed.
“I read your whole book and I wanna say you told the whole story . . . the whole damn story in the first page . . . don’t you think so? . . . I mean that’s brilliant. How many writers can pull that off?”
Korinne let her breath out, smiled, and relaxed. She made her way to the drunken woman as the emcee took the mic to announce a very long list of future writers.

The Jersy Shore – Tar Bubbles – from The Last Cannoli

Excerpt from The Last Cannoli

Rena 1961

Tar Bubbles

I was sitting on the curb at the corner of Creek Street, as far as I could get from my house without asking permission. I was tempted to run one block to my West where the train tracks passed. Or a block to my east where the creek ran, probably all the way to the Atlantic Ocean I wouldn’t see this summer. But neither the tracks nor the creek offered me any hope of travel anywhere. I stared down at the black tar bubbles. It was still early for a Saturday so none of my friends were up and out yet and I could hear the crickets still buzzing loud by the creek. Quiet down, you crickets, I thought. You’re getting on my nerves this morning.
Which bubble would I bust first? My hands itched to bust every last one of them. But I held back. I would stretch the only fun I could have today. When the tar bubbles were gone, the day would be just another hot boring summer day in Rahway, the sun hammering away on my little head of boring straight brown hair.
I heard the express train whistle by a block away. Oh, it seemed to be going so far, far away, even though I knew that train full of people was just 15 minutes from New York. They were people from the outside world going to see Broadway shows, to shop and spend money like fools. That didn’t bug me—I always knew that’s what the outside world was made of. And then there was my family.
It was the whistle of the Jersey Shore Line heading the opposite way that got me. The sound of it bounced off the humid air like a slap in my sweaty face. I slammed my first fist of the day down on a big, fat bubble just right and got a good high squirt—about six inches. The drops of water felt warm as blood. They felt good, like something secret in nature that you don’t usually get to see and that I was setting free. Like that blue robin’s eggshell I found once. Empty, but perfect and blue. I knew that something lively had just fled.
Ah, yeah, that felt good to bust the bubble, but it would’ve felt better if one of my friends was here to see it. Or even one of my brothers—Vinnie, Carmine, or Frankie. But then if my brothers were here I wouldn’t be the one popping bubbles. They would be showing me how they could do it better, just like they always had to win at rummy, Monopoly, stick ball, the hand-slapping game, you name the game. When they found out the family wasn’t going down the shore, they went off to build a hot rod with their friends.
I looked down the block toward my house and saw Paulie walking toward me. He only had one brother, two years younger. I had to hurry up and bust the bubbles or he would want one. There were about six left when he got to me.
“Hi Rena, I thought you were going down the shore,” he said.
“We were,” I said.
“Well, how come you’re here?”
“We’re not going anymore,” I muttered guarding my tar bubbles in case he got any ideas.
“Are you going to squish them all?” he asked when he spotted them. He was six months younger than me. He spoke to me the way I spoke to my brothers. Almost always in questions.
“When I’m good and ready,” I said. He sat next to me and wiped the sweat off his face with his shirt.
“How come you’re not going down the shore?”
“Because someone stole my father’s whole pay.”
“When?”
“Last night and we don’t have any money left.” I said any money like it was a curse word and I had to say it in a loud whisper. I could get punished big time for saying we don’t have any money. If my father heard me it would be all over. I’d be in the cellar the rest of my life eating bread and water—after I got a long licking with the belt.
“Huh?” Paulie said. He was waiting for the whole story. Which I didn’t feel like telling him.
“You ask so many questions,” I said, like my brothers said to me, like my father would say to my brothers.
The night before was like a dream that I didn’t think could go wrong. Lucy was having a big sweet 16 birthday party and Mario’s band played in the cellar. Hundreds and hundreds of their friends came. It seemed like thousands maybe. I lost count. Boys and girls were all over our house and in the back yard. To keep the mosquitoes away we strung up citronella candles on the clothesline that stretched from our back door to the mulberry tree over the creek. Me and Maddelena caught lightning bugs and hid them in jars under the neighbor’s bushes. We were allowed to stay up really late, till midnight and we saw some cool stuff, like the big kids dancing the jitterbug and making out all over the place when they thought my parents weren’t looking. We saw boys and girls smoking cigarettes and blowing smoke rings.
“I heard the music all way down by my house,” said Paulie.
“So, good for you.” He got up and found a Popsicle stick to poke at the tar. I stretched my leg out so he came nowhere near my bubbles. The tar was softer than pizza dough.
My mother made hundreds of pizza pies. My sister and brother only had to tell one friend each when they were having a party. Because of my mother’s pizza, the word spread—“like a flu epidemic” my father said—and every teenager in town heard and came by. Always more than my mother expected. My parents didn’t mind—it was just like having a few more kids as far as they were concerned. In fact, it made them the happiest they could be.
And besides, my mother knew how to make the dough grow. She had a way with the yeast. I would watch her and try to learn, but I couldn’t say exactly how she did it. She massaged the yeast and water into the flour with her thick hands. She spoke low, over her breath, and when the dough was a small ball in her palm, she rubbed some olive oil onto it, the way she massaged baby oil into my baby sisters’ tushis. She talked to the yeast, too, in Italian. When Lucy told her there might be more than 50 kids, my mother pounded the pizza dough in the big bowl, and said, ma putana fa napoli. This must have been a special blessing because I had heard my Grandmother Coniglio, her mother, say it, too. She put a cross in the dough and covered the bowl with a dish towel.
And, that dough grew. My mother gave life to that flour and water. I saw it. The dough doubled and tripled and hung over the bowl’s sides. She punched it down. And it grew again. The kids poured in for the party. And all night long, she was in the kitchen, punching dough, rolling it out into big pans. The more kids came, the more pies she made, the more the dough increased in size. My father awoke from his long sleep to help her. His malaria from the war made him tired during the day, when he wasn’t at work, but he always woke up when my brother played music. He liked music and he liked telling stories. He never had a bad temper when we had a lot of people over for parties. He talked and laughed with them, told stories. He cut the steaming hot pizza with the scissors for my mother and handed it to Lucy who made sure everyone got some. There was tons of pizza and I stuffed my face. So did my sister Maddelena, but I beat her. I ate seven, she only ate six. And we danced to the band.
My brother’s band played a lot of cool songs like At the Hop and Blue Moon and kids were dancing all over the house and backyard. When they played Everybody’s Somebody’s Fool, a girl with a basket of high teased hair and tight black skirt and black ballerina slippers went up to the mike and sang just like Connie Francis. My brother knew a lot of real rock ‘n’ roll singers, too. Two of the big girls danced with me and Maddelena. When we went to bed the party was still going. But my bag was packed to leave for vacation the next morning. I got up early.
“Well . . . how come they stole your money?” Paulie asked again.
“How come, how come,” I mocked.
We were going to stay at my father’s goombah’s house, Johnny Biondi’s in Lavalette. Johnny didn’t have a wife or kids, so he could afford a big fancy house. I couldn’t wait to get out of Rahway and as we drove in our station wagon, watch the country roads turn to sandy-edged ones. Going down the shore was like going to confession and having your sins washed away. You felt pure afterward. I closed my eyes and could just feel the warm yellow sand with bits of smooth shell; I could the smell of fish, the boardwalk, the sea air, the sky, sea, and earth. The shore was a bigger and better mystery than the Blessed Trinity. You needed hardly any clothes. The sea and sand were like a big free treasure chest.
But now we had no money for gas or for bringing food to feed us all. We didn’t know when the money was taken from my father’s wallet in his drawer. My father didn’t know it was gone until this morning when the car was all packed for us to go. Everyone remembered seeing lots of kids all over the house, in every room at one time or other. But no one could say who would have taken my father’s whole pay check and stole our vacation. No one could pick the thief out of hundreds and hundreds of kids eating pizza or dancing or making out. We had no suspects.
“Not even a buck for a gallon of milk and a loaf of bread,” my father said holding out his empty wallet.
My parents, who could get in a major uproar over a dirty dish left in the sink or a crumb on the counter, spoke calmly. “Call your goombah,” my mother said.
“I’ll start unpacking the car,” he said. They acted as if it was all their own fault. There was nothing that could be done.
“That’s that,” sighed my mother. They broke the news to us. We weren’t going down the shore. I wished they would have gotten real mad.
“Why don’t we call Baciagalupe?” I asked. He was the cop down the street who always helped us find lost kids or balls, or talk to mean neighbors.
“You ask too many questions,” my father said and went back to bed. I put down the leftover pizza I was eating with my bowl of coffee. And came looking for tar bubbles to bust.

“Oh, don’t squish that bubble with your foot!” Paulie said pointing to one I hadn’t seen by my sneaker. He scrunched up his brow like he always did, like he might cry.
“Don’t worry,” I said. “I know it’s there.”
It was the last big tar bubble and I was going to bust it good when I thought I might be nice and let Paulie have it. I thought about how my brother Carmine might do this. He would make me do or say something first. I thought of what I might make Paulie do for the pleasure of punching down that juicy black bubble.
“It’ll squirt high—I know how to do it, OK?” he pleaded.
“First say, ‘pretty please with whipped cream and cherries on top.’ ” I smiled, proud of myself for thinking of this. But Paulie took advantage of me. He pushed me aside.
“I know how to do it – let me, please?” he yelled and bent and busted the bubble and got such a good high squirt I was fit to be tied.
“You . . . punk! . . . Carmine makes them squirt much higher,” I yelled at him. Paulie looked deflated.
“I know,” he said quietly. “Well, but, he’s a lot bigger than me.” He waited for me to say something, praise him, or suggest a game, but I just wished for more tar bubbles to bust. I didn’t want him to leave, but I didn’t want him to stay.
“I didn’t say you could have it,” I said.
“You broke all those others,” Paulie said.
“So what, I got here first, they were mine.”
“You don’t own them.”
“Shut up.”
Paulie was too pleased with himself. He hummed and walked around with his head bent to his waist looking for more bubbles.
When he didn’t find any, he asked, “Want to go in my backyard to play house?”
“Nah,” I said. “I’m going into third grade, Paulie, that’s a baby game.”
We had been playing house since I was in kindergarten. Paulie would be the husband, me the wife. He would kiss me good-bye and go through a make-believe door off to work, like our fathers, while I stayed in our make-believe home and cleaned just like our mothers. While Paulie was at work, the bad guys came to the house and tried to rob and kill me. Paulie got home before they succeeded and fought them off. He punched the air and wrestled himself to the ground grunting. I hid behind make-believe furniture as he almost died doing this. But we always had some medicine on the table, which was a product we saw advertised on TV—Tums, Pepto Bismol, Alka Seltzer, or Geritol. Just before he died, Paulie grabbed the drug and swallowed the whole bottle, came alive, and killed the bad guys as they tried to get away. We hugged and kissed and lived happily ever after.
“How about tag?” he asked.
“Not with only two of us,” I said. “I want to play with someone who has a pool and get invited in it.” I thought of the Adams. They had the pool, tons of board games, and one bike per kid in their family. What Paulie had, imagination, I had plenty of myself.
“My mom said maybe we’ll get a pool this summer,” he said.
“Call me when you do. But don’t bother if it’s only two feet deep. Adams is five feet.”
“That’s over our heads,” said Paulie.
“Yeah, well, maybe I can’t swim,” I said. “but I know how to tread water.”
“Girls can’t swim as good as boys,” Paulie said.
“Says who?”
“Me. And I’m glad I’m not a girl,” he said. Paulie’s eyes rolled around and he looked like he was going to tell me something good.
“Why?” I asked.
He made queer sounds and didn’t answer.
“Tell me why . . . or I’ll . . . knock your block off,” I said.
“Cause girls have to get big fat bellies and have babies,” he laughed.
“That’s a big lie,” I answered without blinking. “They do not get fat bellies. Liar.” Then, I thought about it. My mother had a fat belly for most of my life. I tried to think if it was before or after Teresa and Maria were born. But either way, she was my mother. What happened to her didn’t happen to anyone else.
“Liar,” I growled at Paulie. “I’m glad I’m not a boy because boys have to go fight wars and the Communists and get captured and tortured and killed.”
Paulie’s eyes settled down. He swallowed and said, “Only bad guys die in war.”
“That’s only in the movies,” I said.
“Well . . . well . . . I still rather not be a girl. Fat belly, fat belly.” He laughed.
I stood up and pushed him and he pushed me back. I pushed harder and he fell on his butt. He stood up and slapped my chest open-handed right. It hurt and stung right through the sleeveless top my mother made me out of her old house dress. It made me ready for war, to do him in. The only bigger and better weapon I had at hand was my foot. So I kicked. I kicked him once, real hard, like a ballet dancer kick, up between his legs. He bent over and howled. And turned and ran home. I didn’t feel any satisfaction because the fight ended too soon. I ran home. I slipped past my mother. I snuck a peek at her and tried to remember if she was going to have another baby or not. She was busy trying to unpack, clean house, and give attention to Teresa, who just learned to walk and who had been lost during the party—someone found her sleeping with her blanket behind the couch. I looked in the mirror and saw that I was marked. There was a Paulie-size hand welt just below my neck. I sat on my bed and tried to read my book, Pinocchio. I loved the part in the whale’s belly and wished it could be me in there. It made me feel better just to believe that I could—if I ever got out of Rahway.
I stared at the altar of saint statues in the room I shared with Lucy and Maddelena. The Blessed Virgin, scapulars, medals, holy pictures huddled together on the vanity along with our patrons, Mary Magdalene, Saint Lucy, and Jesus of Nazarene for me, Nazarena. I didn’t feel like being sorry yet. Paulie would probably get a clot or infection and die within 24 hours. My heart pounded. I would say it was an accident, that I meant to show him how I play kick ball. No, lying would make it a compound mortal sin. Of course, it only took one mortal to send you to Hell. I would miss Paulie, but there were a dozen other kids on the block I could play with. With pools, games, bikes, and transistor radios even.
A little while later I heard a knock at our front door and I knew it was Paulie’s mother coming to tell us he was dead or dying and what had I done to him. My mother answered. I stood at the top of the stairs and heard Mrs. Larson, Paulie’s mother. She was dragging Paulie by the arm up our front porch. He was screaming, “No, I don’t want to.” After they spoke, my mother called me down stairs and I went very slowly and stood behind her. She was listening to Paulie’s mother.
“Rena, my mother said, “would you please go make up with Paulie.” I knew from the sound of her voice she was busy doing her chores and just wanted to get back to them. But she didn’t want to be impolite to Mrs. Larsen. I didn’t want to show her what Paulie did to me because it meant I lost the fight to a younger kid.
“Do I have to, Mom?”
“G’head,” she pushed me a little and I knew she was asking me as a favor to her. Which softened me up a little. She had so much to do since we weren’t going down the shore.
“Oh, O.K. I’m sorry for kicking you, Paulie.” And then, I remembered what my father always said after giving us lickings, “it hurt me more than it hurt you.” That made him wail louder, but the grown-ups chuckled.
“That’s a good girl, Rena,” said Mrs. Larsen. “What do you say, Paulie?” He opened his mouth and wailed even though I think he was out of tears and then said through sniffles, “I’m sorry, too.” He wanted to get this over with as much as I did.
Mrs. Larsen rolled her eyes like “well, better than nothing” and turned to my mother and said. “Magdalena, I was wondering if you could tell me how to make pizza dough.” Mrs. Larsen was so skinny, she looked like she should eat a lot of pizza. That gave me an idea. My mother invited Mrs. Larsen in to sit in the parlor and they both told us to go play.
“I want to get a drink of water first,” I said. While they sat there talking I ran into the kitchen and found a little packet of yeast.
“C’mon Paulie,” I said running out the front door. “Let’s go see if there are any new tar bubbles.” It was so hot, there might be a few new ones coming up. He stopped whimpering long enough to say, “OK.”
We reached the corner and sat on the curb. Neither of us could find any new bubbles.
“I wanna go play with my brother,” he said.
“What?”
“War.”
“Cards?”
“No,” he said, “real war. I make my brother be the bad guy.”
“Why do you want to play that?”
“Because,” he said, “I like war. my father was in a real war.”
“So was my father,” I said.
“Yeah? Where?
“Ummmm, you tell me where yours was first,” I said trying to think where.
“My father flew airplanes over Germany and dropped bombs and killed a whole bunch of German bad guys.”
“Oh. I think my father was in the Japanese war,” I said. “I think he killed all the Japs. He got shot at and bitten by mosquitoes as big as airplanes, too.”
“Oh,” said Paulie. He scrunched his face again. “Which war?”
“I don’t know, Paulie. I don’t care what war it was. I don’t care about war. War has nothing to do with me. I don’t have to go to war because I’m a girl. War is stupid.”
“It is not,” said Paulie. “My father is not stupid.”
“I didn’t say he was. Neither is my father. Just mean sometimes.”
“Mine’s stupid sometimes. But war is cool,” Paulie said.
“I’ll show you something cool,” I said. I tore open the yeast.
“What’s that?”
“It’s magic. It’ll make the tar grow and grow.” I sprinkled the yeast over a patch of tar and began to knead it in with my fingers. It felt warm and soft and so good and giving. Ma putana fa napoli, I chanted.
“Say it with me,” I ordered Paulie. “It’s magic words.”
Ma putana fa napoli we both sang. We got on our hands and knees and both kneaded the tar rubbing the yeast into it. The little beige specks blended in. Our fingers got black and shiny.
“Close your eyes, Paulie,” I said, “when you open them, the tar will be double in size and there will be so many tar bubbles for every kid on the block, it’ll take you the rest of our lives to bust them. I’m not kiddin’ ”
Ma putana fa napoli, we sang and kneaded together and giggled.
Paulie opened his eyes and said, “Wow, look at that!”
“What?” I asked.
“The tar is growing!”
“It is?”
“Yeah,” he said. His hands and knees were blacker than mine. “keep rubbing it. We’re gonna have tar to spare for kids on the next block.”
“Wow, I said, pointing beyond his shoulder, look at that!”
“What?” he turned and looked at the tar patch.
“That bubble that just came up. It is so big we could both climb inside of it and sit down and hide.”
“Let’s go!” said Paulie. He stood up and climbed over the sides of the bubble and sat. I followed him and sat cross-legged facing him. We stared at each other and said nothing. But I know what we were both thinking. That just over our shoulders would be another bubble, even bigger. In it we could fit anything you could think of. We started naming the things that would fit in it.
“The train to New York.” I said.
“The Shore Line,” he said.
“The creek and all the crickets.”
“My house.”
“An my house.”
“My family station wagon.”
“Down the shore.”
“The whole Atlantic Ocean.”
“China.”
And all the Adams’s bikes and pools, all the money for going down the shore. And all the kids at the party last night except for the thief . . .”
And we would still have room to spare.

The Big Night in Sicily

The Big Night in Sicily appeared in Women Who Eat, ed. Leslie Miller; 2003, Seal Press

THE BIG NIGHT—IN SICILY

Wound a Sicilian, pay through the mouth

By Camille Cusumano

My sister Grace—who is my junior by a year and four days—and I were once each other’s shadow. We answered to each other’s name, covered for each other’s “crimes,” and generally practiced omertà—before we could even pronounce this Sicilian word for the code of silence. Then things changed. Grace took a husband, a big house, and had kids. I took to the road in search of myself.

A few years ago, my sister, who never shared my desperate need to escape New Jersey, expressed interest in accompanying me on my world travels. I suggested she join me on a trip to Sicily, home to our forebears, during which I planned to lodge in hermitages open to lay travelers.

She jumped at the chance. By the time we reached Catania, the province dominated by the active volcano, Mount Etna, it was apparent how we were set in our ways. Grace enjoyed sleeping late, while I was up early. She liked lots of cappuccino stops, I liked to keep moving. She wanted shopping and beach sitting but I insisted on the pursuit of monastic settings.

The one exception to our contrasting time management was food. We are practically clones on this subject. We were bred in the soulful necessity of a well-composed feast. Our Sicilian grandparents put forth even the humblest meal—crusty bread, sweet butter, and wine, say—with the same reverence a priest bestows upon Holy Communion. Food wasn’t just sacred. It was good. We were fed greens like chard, broccoli rabe, dandelions, and cardoons, cooked right from our grandparents’ gardens. Pasta was often hand rolled and we ate mounds of it, prepared in numerous ways, long before it was fashionable in America.

With hunger pangs uniting us one evening after a day of bumps and grinds, we arrived at Acireale. The baroque town sits on a sloping haunch of the moody firepit, Etna, over the Ionian Sea. We would spend the night in the 18th-century Franciscan monastery, San Biagio, amid cloisters, frescoes, lush gardens, statuary, and three ostriches.
On our way out for dinner, we passed a coarse-robed friar strolling the long halls. He jangled his ring of skeleton keys, reminding us that our lodging had a curfew. Still, we had plenty of time to savor a long, slow dinner Sicilian style. We ambled down the narrow back streets to the main thoroughfare, Via Vittorio Emanuele II, scrutinizing each and every restaurant. We were looking for signs—unpretentious lighting, paper tablecloths, men wearing bibs to guard against red splashes, dented metal pots on a hot stove, a plump grandmotherly type chanting a few bars of the melodious dialect, Ven aca, sedi, mangia (come here, sit, eat!).

With its cuisine (like its liturgy) founded on three farm products—wheat, olive, and grape—Sicily doesn’t lack for tempting menus. But we had eaten a mediocre made-for-tourists meal the night before in Cefalù. I had ordered, assiduously in Italian, the pólpo (octopus), remembering my grandmother’s delicious version stuffed with bread crumbs, cheese, and herbs and steeped in tomato broth. Sadly, the vulcanized fiber laid before us was better suited to the soles of a shoe. We were determined not to repeat the experience.

We finally settled on Oste Scuro at Piazza Lionardo Vigo. It was not quite the snapshot of our grandparents’ kitchens, but its al fresco terrace across from a floodlit cathedral was warm and inviting. We watched two handsome, well-heeled couples step from a shiny black limousine and vanish laughing into the shadowy interior of the restaurant. They exuded a certain snob appeal mixed with sensuousness.
As our eyes followed them, I asked Grace, “What do you think?”
“Let’s give it a try,” she said. I agreed, noticing that most patrons seemed to be Italian, not the Anglo tourists notorious for their lack of discriminating taste. I told the maitre d’ in my best Italian—cobbled together from college courses and remembrance of words passed between Mom and Dad—that we wanted only to eat well, not like tourists as we had in Cefalù.
I began to expound on the previous night’s rubbery octopus but trailed off as I saw his face flush deeply, his eyes dart in the sign of the cross, his nostrils flare. What had I said?

I was raised in an expressive culture. My own mercurial father could display passion, anger, disappointment, tenderness with a mere glance and my sister and I translated his meaning the way a blind person reads Braille, or a fisherman the sea.
My complaining had vexed the man, stirring up animosity for us implacable tourists. Perhaps we should leave, I thought. But he took a deep breath and with a dignified and ceremonial flourish he ushered us to a table. “Sit,” he ordered tersely. We obeyed like the dutiful girls we had once been in our traditional Sicilian family.
“What did you say?” whispered Grace who had not missed the surfeit of climate changes in his face.
“I know what I said,” I told her, still wondering if we should just bolt, “I’m not sure what he heard.”

Presently, the maitre d’ returned with two other men, a waiter and one dressed smartly in a suit. They had obviously been clued in that we were complainers. Our longed-for repast would be foiled again.
A carafe of red wine was set before us. After allowing us to briefly study the extensive menu, the three concluded that we should let them feed us. Their imperious tone told us not to object. A side serving table was set up next to ours. This lovely weekend evening had brought many diners to the popular Oste Scuro. Yet none seemed to be getting the attention we were receiving.

Oste Scuro’s menu featured at least 20 different antipasti, representing every flavor of Sicily that has seduced discriminating palates since a Sicilian, Archestrato from Gela, wrote the first cookbook, The Sweet Taste, 400 years before Christ. Grace and I were served in slow procession tangy-sweet caponata, platters of fried eggplant, fresh, creamy ricotta, buffalo-milk mozzarella, prosciutto; citrus and onion salad; broccoli rabe and wild fennel redolent of garlic and olive oil; conch tender as a first kiss; fire-roasted peppers. We took a few breaths and forked onto our plates fritto misto of artichokes and squid, frittata larded with pancetta, fresh fava beans, and peas, and roasted potatoes with caramelized garlic toes.

Every taste sensation between earth and sun, from the pungent to the sweet to the sour was laid upon our tongues. Generosity is nourishment in and of itself and we would have felt sated, even if these dishes had been less phenomenal. To our astonished delight, more antipasti were set before us—marinated porcini, fresh sardines, mussels, shrimp, and sautéed calamari. We worked the goodness from each morsel like bees sucking nectar from flowers.

As the parade of dishes crowded the serving table near us I learned that the smartly dressed man regaling us was none other than Oste Scuro owner Carmelo Muscolino who has run the establishment for more than thirty years. The pride Muscolino takes in his country’s cooking was evidenced in these time-honored ingredients, from the fruits of sea and earth to the piquant kiss of garlic, fragrant embrace of olive oil, and tingle of lemon.
“Don’t look now,” I said to Grace, “but one of the guys waiting on us is il Padróne himself, master of the house.”
“I’ll kiss his ring,” said Grace, smacking her lips, “his food is fabulous.”
“I’m afraid he’ll kill the cook,” I said, “if I tell him it’s anything but.”

Catania’s specialties include the aromatic pasta Norma, a rigatoni with tomatoes, fried eggplant, basil, and the sharp ricotta salata; pasta cc’a muddica, made with toasted bread crumbs, olive oil, and anchovies; pasta cc’u trunzu, with specially cultivated cabbage; and pasta cc’u niuru, mantled in a dark, sweet mix of squid ink and tomatoes. We were served Oste Scuro’s versions of each one, plentiful enough to feed six people. Grace and I looked at each other. We understood that to stop eating was tantamount to trampling the flag.

But with each delightful swallow, my eyes bulged. My waistline felt no more distinct than the middle of a bell pepper. The taste of the food and the sheer abundance transported me back to my childhood when not one of our parents’ ten children dared leave the table before cleaning their plates.
“Take small portions and eat very slowly,” I advised Grace.
“Easy for you to say,” she said, noticing that I would offer to serve her first, then fill her plate with more food than I took. I pushed the thought of the bill away. It loomed like an unreal dénouement in a Fellini film.

I began to understand how my cavalier criticism had desecrated these Sicilians’ cherished patrimony. That they were ashamed of their compatriot who had fed us so poorly that I had felt compelled to broadcast it. The abundance and diversity of food served us—with nary a hint of fawning—was an implicit gag order. We accepted the “penance” for my blasphemy.

The four paste were delicious, perfectly al dente and balanced in the pairing of chewy and tender textures and of flavors—sweet, salty, robust, mild, aromatic. Each attested that the true genius of Sicilian cooking is in the use of honest, fresh ingredients mingled in imaginative ways. I wanted to convey my innate understanding of this ancient alchemy to our waiter, but he was not interested in small talk. He nodded to the maitre d’ who came by, smiled, and asked, “How is everything?”
“Extraordinary! Superb!” we assured him too eagerly.
“Bene,” he said and told us to follow him. We stood, not without difficulty, and followed him inside the restaurant where we all leaned over a case of silver and iridescent fish on ice. He asked us to choose which we wanted and when he saw the clouded look on our faces, he pointed to a four-to-five-pound red snapper and asked, “Will this one do?”
“There’s more?” asked Grace, panicky.
“Uhh . . . si . . . of course . . .” I answered wistfully. I’d never been humbled by food in quite this way.
“How would you like it?” he asked.
“To go, tell him,” said my sister who was on her first trip abroad. How to explain to her, whose mores have been steadfastly shaped in north Jersey, that she was no longer in Hoboken. I felt her eyes egging me to request that doggie bag.
“Grigliata?” he asked.
“Si, si,” I mumbled. Grilled snapper it would be.

Back in our seats, I felt like a character in Jean Genet’s theatre of the absurd, uncertain of which side of the playwright’s master-slave equation we represented. We sipped wine to revive our long-gone appetites for the fish course and I refrained from telling Grace that oste scuro translated to “dark host.” My thoughts grew even darker as I recalled that the thick menu included many types of carne, from rabbit and pork to veal scaloppini and famous Florentine chianina beef, all of which I ordinarily love.

The snapper arrived. Discreetly, I loosened my belt two notches. Grace grabbed the serving utensils and served me the larger portion. “Hey, look!” I exclaimed, “over there, that handsome man is staring at you!” I shoveled food from my plate back into hers as she turned. Of course, she didn’t fall for that old gag but the comic relief was welcome—even if it hurt to laugh. We were drunk, not on wine, but on food.

The snapper was meltingly sweet and moist and we washed it down with more goblets of the rugged Catanese wine. Another platter arrived. It contained beautiful fresh fruit, including loquats, the sweet white-fleshed Mediterranean fruit that would be criminal to pass up in Sicily. Just as I expelled the last of their mahogany pits, three different pastries appeared. I had always admired the Arabs’ legacy to Sicily—an inventive finessing of almonds, pistachios, chocolate, sugar, eggs, and ricotta into an array of delectable dolci—until that moment. But we worked through the meal’s crowning opulence like the actors with their death wish in La Grande Bouffe, even as the waiter posited a surreal trio of liqueurs—lemoncello, arancello, and cioccolato—in front of us.
Tears filled our eyes and we pondered the existential question of whether we’d died and gone to heaven or hell. About the time the espresso arrived, we scared up the courage to ask our waiter to please bring a check—any check.

Ma, perché avete frétta?—What’s the hurry?—he asked. You must try our gelato next. E fatto in casa.
“No, please! We love homemade gelato! Right, Grace?” I said, vaguely aware that my shrill tone belied my words. Grace wrung her hands. And then, in my desperation, I remembered some received wisdom, the one thing in Sicily that might trump their need to compensate their wounded pride—a woman’s chaste reputation.

“Signor,” I begged, standing to block the way of our “dark host” to the kitchen that held our torture and delight. “We are lodging at San Biagio. They lock the doors at midnight. It’s quarter to twelve—we must get back—or we’ll have to sleep in the streets.”
My plea magically triggered the evening’s anti-climactic climax. Our check arrived within minutes. It would be astronomical. We didn’t care. Oh, we would pay anything for the pleasure of waddling away from that wonderful restaurant. But the full bill was only 158,000 lire, about $75 for two of us.

Ecstatic at the unexpectedly low total, I offered to treat Grace and pay the entire bill, which she accepted. It was a small price to pay for lessons learned on both our accounts. While I imparted a modicum of traveling etiquette to my younger sister (like there is no Italian word for “doggie bag”), we both learned that one must also be prepared for the dark host. He could be lurking just behind the next prèzzo fisso menu. Next time, my sister and I will remember what to do: Omertà.

The Pleasures of the Table

The Pleasures of the Table appeared in France, a Love Story, ed., Camille Cusumano, 2004.

Of Gods and Fathers

Of Gods and Fathers appeared in Far From Home, ed. Wendy Knight; 2004, Seal Press.


Of Gods and Fathers
By Camille Cusumano

We would be nothing but for our blood. It’s a debatable point, but one on which my father and I agree. That we share any hardwiring–let alone blood–always gives me pause. My father is a man who is given to remorseless outbursts of misogyny. He yells at the TV’s female announcers to “go home and have babies.” He makes no bones about his belief that with women in the workplace the world is in a downward spiral.

“I’m sorry, I can’t change the way I feel,” is his summary dismissal of any argument. Except for a rare lapse in restraint, I no longer argue with him.

I was preparing for my third trip to Sicily from which my blood flows, on both maternal and paternal sides, when my oldest brother, Jim, said, “Take Dad and Mom.”

It was a sound request. My father could recite Sicilian history, chapter and verse, yet neither he nor my mother had set foot on the birth soil of their parents. He needed to see Sicily before he died, but hadn’t I become a world traveler in part to escape my father and his constricting views? As I pondered the prospect of being abroad with my father, Jim, known affectionately as Numero Uno, added resolutely, “Spare no expense, I’ll pay.” Done deal.

It’s one thing to visit a Greek temple. It’s another tothink that maybe one of your very own ancestors built that spectacular rise of well-proportioned stone. Fanciful as it is, that’s the thought that has often flashed through my mind during my trips to Sicily. Unbeknownst to Americans, Sicily has more temples than Greece, having been part of the Roman, Greek and Byzantine empires. Ask a Sicilian about this, however, and you will learn that the great mathematician Archimedes was born in Siracusa. Ask my father and you will hear that Dante was enchanted by the polyglot Sicilian language and that God planted the Garden of Eden there.

My father’s relentless boasting of Sicily’s undervalued greatness inspired my first trip to the island in 1976. Panicky about meeting my father’s cousins, I made a pilgrimage of sorts to the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento where four of these monuments stand in a harmonious line on a ridge overlooking the Mediterranean. I had no idea how to invoke the support of the temples’ gods– Castor and Pollux, the patrons of sailors, the mighty Hercules, and the moody Hera, but I left feeling fortified.

More than 20 years later, I was there again, with Dad and Mom in tow. We found the same pink and gold maritime light suffusing the shrines where divine auguries transpired 25 centuries before. The irony that the cult of the Great Mother was responsible for many of these stone relics may have escaped my father, but it gave me silent pleasure.

A softer patriarch at age 78, my father sat on a ledge in the scant shade of an acacia tree and said his rosary. He needed to rest the weak heart and lungs that lay behind a serpentlike scar down his chest. Twice he has had his rib cage cracked open, like a crab, so doctors could reposition vessels and tubes to keep his heart pumping properly. During one episode, his heart stopped beating for a few minutes. (“He’s got more bypasses than L.A. has freeways,” my siblings and I have joked.) He has come back from the brink more than once, with part of him inexorably tough as nails.

Leaving him to pray, my mother and I slowly climbed the ridge to pay homage to the gods and goddesses of our ancestors. As she and I rested in the long shadow of the 34 fluted columns of the Temple of Concordia, I thought about my father. Weak and vulnerable and in need of my navigating strength, both physical and mental, he was once as invincible and almighty as any Greek god.

When I was growing up, the fifth of his ten kids, our family of twelve sat down to supper together every evening. The routine was as familiar to each of us as church liturgy. My mother, by Dad’s decree, served us kids first, him last, then sat at his right side. We remained silent until we had bowed our heads as one to say grace. At the height of the Cold War, we tacked on a prayer for peace to the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Memorare. No one conversed until our father, who sat at the head of the rectangular Formica table, gave the word and sometimes he didn’t. As we ate every morsel of food on our plates, Dad’s forbidding dark eyes glanced around to make sure each one was eating a hunk of bread, the better to fill so many bellies. No one dared think of leaving the table until we were all done and then only with express permission: “Dad, may I please be excused?”

Failing to show up for this sacrosanct meal without prior excuse or even arriving a few minutes late could mean a whipping with his belt (sons and daughters both). He was unswervingly strict and adherent to corporal punishment.

That tyrant is all but gone, I thought, as I drove my parents around the isle of our forebears, remembering the good ties that bound us, too, like our shared reverence for a fine repast. We strolled Palermo’s Vucciria market purchasing olives, sesame seeded bread, asiago, fresh figs, and tomatoes for a picnic lunch. My father and I were entranced by the city’s ancient sites-the Cathedral, the Royal Palace with its Palatine Chapel, and Monreale with its glittering mosaics. My mother hung back, distracted or bored, but he and I absorbed the awesome message of the architecture-an Arab arch or Moorish dome here, a Norman steeple or Roman façade there. The unusual mix bespoke centuries of cultural one-upmanship. How much historical grief over all the trampling infused our own blood?

Driving to Taormina, the aristocratic jewel over the Ionian Sea, my mother sat quietly in the backseat, a place she has known intimately in deference to my father for more than 60 years of marriage. We stopped often in tiny villages to appease my father’s restroom needs. At each stop, he found some friendly stranger happy to listen to him recall his first tongue. “Mi chiamo Calogero, no parlo Italiano, parlo Sicilian’ antica.” (My name is Calogero-his baptismal name, changed by his first school teacher to Charles-I don’t speak Italian, I speak old Sicilian.) Leaning on his cane, waxing proud on his heritage, my father fit right in with his audience of aging, bent villagers.

Through the sun-drenched countryside we traveled, my father frequently breaking into songs, some of which he had made up decades ago. In his younger days, his moods could turn on a dime. His dark ones were hellish, but when they were good, all was right with the world. Then he would express his love for us kids and my mother, often with hyperbole—he “loved us more than life itself.” He told the little kids funny stories (“the world will end when there are no more Popsicle sticks.”) and led us through sing-alongs (Oh Marie! and Bill Grogan’s Goat were some of his favorites). He wrote love songs to my mother (after he had tested her good nature by being demanding).

In Taormina, his charismatic side was fully engaged. As my mother perused the art in a gallery, he and the artist, Giolini, entertained patrons with a folksong, Quel Mazzolin dei fiori. At the ancient Greek Theater, he admonished a guard, “Stop whistling and sing through your mouth!” They broke into Faniculi, fanicula. His antics continued through dinner. The waiters all but kissed the ground he stood on addressed him as Padrino, as he bragged of his ten kids and thirty three grand- and great-grandkids. When he pretended that the perfectly cooked veal parmigiana was only so-so, the headwaiter said, “I will kill the cook.”

On the other hand, the drivers, especially those in Palermo who have zero tolerance for floundering tourists, awakened a shadow of my father’s former hair-trigger road rage. As I drove, he blurted out, “G’head, you ham ‘n egger, you couldn’t give us break . . . Ah, cryin’ out loud, blow your horn out the other end. . . that’s right, cut in front like the gavun’ you are. . . ”

I let him chatter away, perhaps still harboring the little girl who feared him. The first eighteen years of my life I was my father’s obedient daughter, before I went on to flout his flags to God, country, and family: I didn’t marry or bear children, practiced Zen Buddhism and dropped Catholicism, and demonstrated against wars–all of which he believes are right and just.

Between 13th-century stone walls in Cammarata, my paternal grandfather’s village, came a defining moment. I was tense negotiating a narrow cobble-stone alley built in the Middle Ages for hoofed beasts, which now passed as a road for motor vehicles. The ocher-colored feudal dwellings closed in, not even inches from either side of the shiny purple Opal. Suddenly, a loud clap resounded in the car-the side-view mirror banged shut as I got too close to the wall. My father had been trying to guide me on his side but I preferred my own animal instinct. I muttered the F word under my breath, a word I hadn’t ever used in his presence. He sensed my disapproval. “I was just trying to help,” he said wistfully.

There, to the sound of metal scraping stone, I realized that he feared me more than I feared him. In that instant, I felt sorry for him. Not for the first time. I had felt sorrow that both his father and his mother died minutes before he reached their deathbeds; that he had been injured in World War II and sent home with a bad back for life. He had come stateside on a Friday and showed up for work on a Monday, having no transition period to civilian life. He was edgy after returning and given to slapping his one-and-a-half-year old son, born in his absence, for slamming doors. He was haunted for years by the gore of war in the South Pacific, of which he spoke freely, especially during his drinking career. After taking an early retirement for the back injury, he became in mid-life a full-fledged alcoholic and only went into recovery at age 58 after several stunning spectacles.

Exiting from the tight 13th-century walls onto an open
piazza, we faced the modern four-story home of my father’s first cousin, Nicola Tuzzolino. Ten years my father’s junior, Nicola, with dark features and swarthy skin like his American cousin, was my father’s alter ego He and his wife, Concetta, live on the top floor of their hillside dwelling. Their three sons and one daughter reside with spouses and children on the floors beneath. Nicola seemed as bereft of demons as my father was rich in them.

The two cousins hit if off well and we spent days over sumptuous Sicilian meals of pasta, farm-raised lamb, and homemade wine, talking family, laughing, discovering uncanny coincidences-like both their firstborn sons are chemists. One afternoon my mother recounted the story of my first visit to Sicily, during which Nicola called my parents in Pennsylvania, not realizing that it was three in the morning there. My mother, half asleep, yelled into the phone, “Hello!”

Nicola would reply, “Pronto!” Hellos and prontos went back and forth across the Atlantic several times until my mother woke up my father, saying, “It’s Mussolini, he’s calling collect from Sicily.”

Nicola’s offspring, all college educated, worked as professionals, while Nicola farmed several hundred acres of land including a parcel left behind by my father’s father. Throughout our first week there, my father pestered Nicola to take him to see the farm. Nicola put it off, until, at last, one afternoon we drove the ten kilometers to see this fertile irrigated family land.

We spent hours touring the farm as Nicola proudly showed us the many crops that he had cultivated: pears, oranges, and apricots. We picked apples, persimmons, and small white and red grapes; we gathered tomatoes, eggplants, cucuzza, zucchini. Nicola’s nephew Toto picked up runner vines and tied them to the wire fence and I picked a blade of wheat to take back to America. The land, golden in the scorching summer sun, stretched clean and clear for acres as far as the eye could see and in my depths I felt a sweetness and an unspoken grief. In America, my father’s progeny have fared well materially, but relative to the Tuzzolino clan, we are decidedly land-poor.

Perhaps it was this grief that led to the misunderstanding. “Where was my father’s land?” my father innocently asked Nicola who was rankled and suspicious that we had come to reclaim what was once my grandfather’s. Nicola defensively repeated the story we already knew–that my grandfather’s mother had returned to Sicily after World War I and given Nicola’s family the land in exchange for being taken care of until her death.
“No, no,” my father winsomely protested, “you don’t understand, it is your land, I don’t want it. I only want to see where my father worked.”

I understood what Nicola never could. My father wanted to harvest stories, salve a wound, not abscond with land. He wanted to understand another side of his titan of a father, the tough immigrant who let America’s work ethic do him in by age 51. He wanted to imagine the youth who herded sheep, watered plants, slept on a hillock, chewed a blade of grass, bathed naked in the stream. My father was only nineteen when his father died, too young to down-size the god to human.

As Nicola shrugged and pointed off in some undefined distance, my father retreated from the subject. In no time, they were back on an even keel, Nicola back-slapping my father whom he respected deeply, not least of all for siring a passel of bambini. My parents enjoyed the remainder of their visit, attending many festive celebrations, including the Feast of San Calogero in Naro and the Feast of Jesus of Nazarene in San Giovanni-Gemini. And my father even deigned to visit the grotto of Santa Rosalia in San Stefano. A beautiful but uppity woman of the Middle Ages, she resisted men’s advances in favor of a hermit’s contemplative life. Visitors must go down on bended knees to see her shrine. They must crawl through a narrow opening to pray at her altar. Even my father did this.

Say what you want about the guy, he has come a long way.

A Splendid Duck

A Splendid Duck appeared in The Unsavvy Traveler, anthology, 2005, Seal Press

THE MOST memorable duck I ever ate was a canard cooked up slowly, willfully, by my friend Suzanne when we were on a summer work program in France. We were young and impoverished students, enriching ourselves in one of the world’s finest cultures. But pommes frites and salade niçoise could go only so far in making a student from Texas (Suzanne) or New Jersey (me) feel culturally superior. So every few weeks, Suzanne, who at twenty-eight was more worldly-wise than I (age twenty), seduced a couple of men. They would, for the pleasure of our poulet-de-printemps company, wine and dine us. The truite, biftek, and coq au vin were superb, if not free; the men–who always seemed more ravenous at the end of the meal–always expected un petit peu de sexe.
Never mind that there are other names for such an arrangement. It was all soul-blackening premarital sex, as far as I, not long out of Catholic girls’ school, was concerned. (And feminism wouldn’t reach my neighborhood until a year later.) Somehow I always got out of paying the postprandial price. On the other hand, Suzanne, obviously one of those libertine Protestants I’d heard about, would on occasion have no qualms about delivering “les goods.”
We had been fired after only two weeks from our jobs as barmaids at Café Bleu in La Franqui, a lovely beach town in southern France. We were essentially run out of town because everyone in the village was friend or relative to our patron. Our downfall had begun with our eagerness to mingle with the youth of the village, which included some attractive young men. We had asked the prudish café owners, who were charged with our oversight, if we could have permission to step out after work. (We were boarding in their home and being fed three meals a day in the company of three generations of their family.) They responded, “Sure, you can go out any night after hours. But,” they said through pursed lips, “you’ll have to climb the locked gate when you return.”
Suzanne had dauntlessly taken them up on this dubious liberty one weekend night. While I waited in our small room for her to return, I thought about our first evening together as complete strangers. As she unpacked her bags, she threw two foreign objects on the bed: an aerosol can and a clear plastic gadget. “That’s spermicidal cream and that’s the syringe for inserting it–any time you need to borrow it, feel free,” she said, and finished unpacking before I could gather my thoughts and respond. You could say I was getting my first real sex education from Suzanne; Father Masho’s long-winded religion classes at Mother Seton had amounted to: “Girls say no, because boys can’t.” Suzanne was punching holes in my church’s dogma, left and right.
One Friday night, some of our French friends invited Suzanne and me to a sangria party. Dozens of us stood around the country dirt road in front of a cottage and drank endless glasses of the purple beverage, thick with fresh citrus wedges. I chatted with my friends, Chantal and her boyfriend, Patrick (or Patreeck), on whom I had a crush, while Suzanne talked to an Australian man passing through the village. The night wore on, music played, and when the galvanized tub of sangria hit bottom, I realized I hadn’t seen Suzanne for hours. Or the Australian. They both returned late, licking their chops, so to speak. Suzanne told me she was glad she had remembered her birth control, laughing as we both scaled and leaped the fence that night.
Her wanton ways aside, I was the one who had actually turned us into fugitives. Our student-work program representative stopped by one day to see how we were doing. Jacques, one of the owners, made dramatic reference to the gate-hop, slurring Suzanne in machine-gun French. My hands, which were resting inside my barmaid apron’s two pockets, filled with francs of every size, seemed to gain a life of their own. Before I could consult with my hands, they had flung two fistfuls of coins into the scowling face of Jacques, who was separated from me only by a two-foot-wide bar. Five men had to hold him down as he tried to leap it. Suzanne and I, spurred by our own adrenaline, ran up to our room, packed our suitcases in minutes, and got a lift out of town from a sympathetic villager.
As we hitchhiked up to the north of France, the only things we missed about Café Bleu were the regular home-cooked meals. Together we weathered the unbearable cravings that plague those with the purse of a proletariat and the palate of an aristocrat. We hadn’t eaten much for a few days when we stopped in Narbonne. A man in a public park fed us some pedestrian bread and sausage, and it tasted like something from the table of King Louis XIV.
After a week of such rationed dining, we had lost weight. We reached Châteauroux in the Loire Valley, once the domaine of fat kings and queens in their castles, and took a room at Hôtel Voltaire for not many francs. To lift our spirits, we put on our ersatz-silk dresses and sought relief from hunger pangs in the bouncing colored lights and repetitive four-four beat of a local discotheque.
The capitaines in the French army must have been watching us dance together. They were athletic and handsome, in hindsight, but their crew cuts, at a time when long hair was the universal badge of trustworthiness for youth around the world, made them look old and as suspect as cops. It did not help that Roger and Gilles, in their pressed and pleated khakis, danced stiffly, like someone over thirty in the 1960s trying to do the twist.
Suzanne was more impressed–or perhaps more hungry–than I was, and I could see a scheme was wending its way through her head. At first I wanted no part of it this time. But Ol’ Tex, as I called her when the cultural gulf between us felt as wide as the Gorge du Verdon, was steadfast in her machinations, where I was quixotic and reactionary. (After all, we’d still be at Café Bleu eating three fine meals a day if it weren’t for my spring-loaded impulses.)
It’s not that I didn’t have amorous feelings for Frenchmen. I had walked on the beach in La Franqui with Pierre, the baker, on his night off, and he had shown me why it’s called “French” kissing. I had gone on a date to a nice bar with François, who was small of frame but robust of embrace. On the beach (always on the beach–no young people had a private place in this resort area), my body English communicated with his “body French”:
François: Ça me plaira si tu enleverais ta robe. (I’d like it if you’d take off your dress.)
Moi: Je ne fais pas comma ça. (I don’t go all the way.)
François settled for PG-13 romance.
As I watched Suzanne’s familiar seductive tactics (it had been weeks since the sangria party), I considered that we were gastronomes in training, long overdue for food steeped in rich sauces and made from animal parts whose French names we were still learning to pronounce. I considered that I was hungry for new and exotic dining experiences, and also for world experience. I wasn’t yet ready to be cavalier about sex, but I trusted Suzanne the way I trusted a tableau by Manet or a poem by Baudelaire–a startling work of art with hidden depth. She was my own enfant terrible, yearning to escape a lifetime of constraints. So, despite my reservations, I went along with Suzanne’s plan.
The next day, Roger and Gilles met us as planned at Hôtel Voltaire and drove us to Valençay to visit the château. I was to get Roger, but when they arrived I couldn’t remember which one he was–one crew cut looked like the next. And both men spoke the rapid-fire French of the provinces, which was muddy to my untrained ear. I smiled a lot and said, “Oooohhh, ça alors!” It didn’t seem to matter to Gilles . . . or . . . Roger.
We visited the swank, wrought-iron-gated royal courts of Sir Talleyrand. The men took turns reciting five centuries of history. One more passionate than the other, they told of the noble Estampes family, who were responsible for this great architectural masterpiece of Renaissance and Classical styles.
“It’s my favorite castle,” I understood one of them to say.
“Oh, moi, I prefer Chambord,” argued the other. I still couldn’t tell them apart, but I marveled at the depth of their love and knowledge of their country’s history, qualities that have marked every Frenchman I’ve ever met.
At the end of a long stone drive, my acute hunger and anticipation of its being quelled in style seemed to heighten the details provided by Roger or Gilles. Surrounded by the requisite moat, the château had been some two hundred years in the building. The furnishings in the apartments were French Regency, Louis XVI, and Empire. Ça alors.
But, two hours into this ceremonious tour, while we were still using the polite vous form to address each other, I became too weak to care about French patrimony. Give me a baguette, s’il vous plaît. Feeling faint, I sat on a stone bench alone for a while, watching the game animals roam the grounds. I was staring at a duck, when suddenly it was turning on a rotisserie, dripping big splats of juice. Ponies, swans, peacocks, and goats were scattered about, and I began to feather, skin, and spit-roast them all, then place their steaming carcasses on a huge platter redolent of garlic, trimmed with browned potatoes, shallots, sprigs of thyme, and a nicely reduced brown sauce, finished with beurre maitre d’hôtel.
I had lost all interest in the fortress, and when these délices de France danced before my eyes, I even forgot about the creepy feeling I had about our getting a fancy repast this way. I forgot about my most recent struggle to keep my clothes on–with two American soldiers whom Suzanne had gotten to drop God knew how many sous for bottles of fine French burgundy. Although Roger and Gilles had much more class and finesse than the Americans, I sensed that they wouldn’t take sexual rejection any more gracefully.
When at last the four of us were sitting inside the Chêne Vert, a one-star restaurant, I had my usual aperitif, Pastis. I could now decipher Roger’s–or was it Gilles’? Let’s say Roger’s–speech, and he seemed to take interest in who I was, my college studies back home, where I lived. He was astonished at the size of my family, and I had to explain that that part of my life was due not to my being American, but to my being Italian. And like every other French person we’d met, both capitaines asked Suzanne if her family had oil fields in Texas and therefore beaucoup de sous, this accompanied by the perfunctory rubbing of the palm. Her family had neither oil nor money, but Suzanne’s smile and patience, like her Texan drawl in French, were constant and unrelenting. “Monsieur, ce n’est pas important; c’est incroyable! Ce n’est pas vrai!” Every syllable clearly anglicized, her elision of consonant to vowel and perfectly emphasized.
For a fleeting moment I let my defenses down and asked my guy about himself–where he’d grown up and what he would do after the army. He was from Toulouse, he said, and would go back to his family there and find a job similar to the work he did now.
“Très bien,” I nodded, careful not to show too much interest lest it be construed as an invitation I was not making.
Soon an elegant soup of cream of sorrel was under my nose, and I was the first to dive into the pale green pool, ignoring the muffled sounds of French about me. I resurfaced for conversation only when I scraped bottom.
Gilles asked if we liked Tum Jonz (Tom Jones), who was a superstar all over France that year, 1971. His song “She’s a Lady” played ad nauseum on every jukebox, including the one at Café Bleu. It was second only to the Rolling Stones’s “Brown Sugar,” which at least we could dance to.
“Un peu,” Suzanne lied. Of course we didn’t like Tum Jonz; we hated him, and Gilles and Roger’s love of him strengthened my guard.
I grabbed some bread, cleaned my plate, and ignored Roger’s hungry eyes. I didn’t like what I read in them–he should have seen gaucheness in my action, but I could tell he saw lewd foreshadowing, some code behavior for what he thought might come. Perhaps he was having visions to rival my own back in the courtyard. Though I doubt spit-roasting was his fancy.
I started to feel much better as my blood sugar rose. My well-oiled French flowed, and I realized then that the French had invented their gastronomy as a foil for their impossible tongue–you need that wonderful, rich food to help the lips, tongue, and throat wrap themselves around otherwise taut, tense sounds. By the time the canard rôti arrived–it looked just as I had prepared it in my hallucination–I was able to slow down a bit and savor each juicy morsel, bleeding its impeccably seasoned jus into my deprived mouth, along with roasted potatoes and a caramel-sweet macédoine of peas, carrots, and tender pearl onions. It was, as Suzanne kept repeating, Quel splendide!
Yes, it was splendide through the salade verte, the hot soufflé a l’orange, the espresso, the Marie Brizard digestif. Three hours after we sat down, we strolled out to the car. Just as I was feeling that ’Ol Tex knew what she was doing, and we were on our way home, Gilles turned his car away from our hotel and toward the nearby vineyards, then down a narrow road through a dark tunnel of plane trees. Away from the vineyards he drove, the naked vines looking like dwarfed curmudgeons, sneering and mocking us with hideous, gnarled limbs.
“Où allons-nous, Monsieur?” Suzanne asked in a voice whose confidence made me wish I’d been born a Texan. It was so dark, with no moon but a ton of stars, which would have been romantic under most circumstances. But the inkiness closed in on me as I tried to maintain normal breathing and remember fun times with Suzanne in France: riding a tandem bicycle and singing Daisy, Daisy, give me your answer true for amused passersby; sleeping on the yacht of a rich English couple who’d hoped to ensnare us as maids; racing down a country road in a convertible with François, who drove our getaway car out of La Franqui. Suzanne and I had been through so much in so little time. And I still had my treasured honor.
Would she and Gilles actually do it in the front seat? Would Roger be content to share small talk with me as they did? Gentilhommes or non? Catholic schoolgirl scruples or Protestant libertinage? I knew the score. I knew when a meal had strings attached–even if I didn’t know the French translation for the custom.
Gilles coolly parked and killed the motor; Roger’s arm came around the top of my seat, then nonchalantly slid down to my shoulder. I was ready to give the meal back.
“Suzanne!” I yelled in my best English. “Get us out of this!”
She didn’t answer. I was about to have to fight off the French army, and Suzanne was making small talk up front with Gilles. Or was she? “Qu’est-ce qu’y a? QU’EST-CE QU’Y A?” repeated Gilles shrilly. Why was he asking her “What’s the matter?” over and over? Suzanne had wordlessly slumped forward toward the dash. Gilles was feeling the pulse of her limp wrist.
“Du vin, trop de vin,” he repeated, shaking his head with despair. Too much wine. “O, merde, quelle sorte de connerie!” He blasted himself with the heartbreaking vulnerability, worthy of Cyrano de Bergerac, that I’ve heard many Frenchmen evince.
“Ça alors,” I said, confused. We had polished off three bottles of wine, plus our before- and after-dinner drinks, but I was fine, what with all the food. Before I could articulate a thought in any language, Gilles had turned the key and screeched back in reverse. I heard gravel shooting out from under the tires and flying against trees. Roger begrudgingly took his arm back. The air inside the car became heavy, charged, and uncomfortably silent.
The country road with old vines unfurled in reverse as we sped back to our hotel. I would have felt relieved but I was concerned for Suzanne. I reached forward and felt her forehead. She was now slumped against Gilles, warm and motionless.
The capitaines carried Suzanne’s dead weight to our room. Miraculously, no one saw us. They deposited her on the bed, where she lay unmoving, a sated look on her face. I took a blanket from the armoire and covered her. The men backed smoothly toward the door, saying “bon voyage, bon voyage.”
“Un moment,” I said, making them freeze in their tracks at the door.
“Oui?” came Gilles’s small voice, his hand on the doorknob.
“Merci pour la bonne soirée–c’était un très bon restaurant,” I said.
“De rien, de rien,” Gille answered hurriedly, as if he bought expensive repasts for strangers on a regular basis. He tiptoed, backing up, shrinking, shrinking, and fading like the end of a Looney Tunes cartoon. They shut the door quietly, and that was the last I saw of them. I still think of them today: two French patriarchs past middle age with little paunches sharing a wink and a chuckle as they recall the américaine saoule–so lit she had passed out even before she could enjoy un peu de sexe.
After they left, I felt Suzanne’s head again and sat there for about thirty seconds. She opened her eyes and said, “Are they gone?”
“Oui. That was a close one,” I said.
“Oui,” said Suzanne. She started laughing hysterically. ’Ol Tex really could get us out of anything. I laughed along with her until it hurt. Ah oui, quel canard splendide!

Greece, A Love Story

12595900.jpgGreece, A Love Story, edited by Camille Cusumano, Seal Press, Emeryville, Calif.

Greece, it has been said, is where art became inseparable from life. The country evokes a richly embroidered tapestry of images, from old monuments rife with history to idyllic isles of glass-blue sea and blinding white stucco dwellings. Greece enchants its visitors with its beauty, tradition, and spirit.

In this eloquent collection, women share firsthand experiences of the people, history, and landscape of Greece. Their essays go beyond ordinary travelogue to capture the ways in which Greece has shaped lives or influenced decisions. In expressing their love for the country, these women share stories as visceral as they are poignant, as entertaining as they are endearing.

Whether they are seasoned travelers or armchair adventurers, Greece aficionados or those just beginning to learn about the country, readers of this compelling collection will gain a better understanding of Greece and how experiences abroad can impact their lives.

Mexico A Love Story

10992446.jpgMexico A Love Story, edited by Camille Cusumano, Seal Press, Emeryville, Calif.

Mexico has long cast a spell over its neighbor — and alter ego — to the north. Americans share its history, exalt its food, and honor its artistic luminaries. They cross the border in droves, heading to warm waters, busy city centers, open-air mercados, language classrooms, cousins’ living rooms, and majestic temples. Mexico inspires passion and adventure — and love. In this eloquent collection, women share firsthand experiences with the people, history, and landscape of this rich country. Transcending the ordinary travelogue, these articles capture the ways in which Mexico has shaped lives or influenced decisions, how it has affected each woman in profound ways. In expressing their love for the country, these diverse writers share intimate stories as visceral as they are poignant, as entertaining as they are endearing. This compelling collection offers a new way for seasoned visitors, armchair travelers, and anyone interested in Mexico to appreciate an old friend.

Italy, A Love Story

12674369.jpgItaly, A Love Story, edited by Camille Cusumano, Seal Press, Emeryville, Calif.

Legendary for fabulous food, persistent men, and a lyrical language, Italy has inspired many great love affairs-with the country itself. From the notorious occupants and cuisine of Sicily, to the ancient marvels of Rome, to the couture of Milan, women throughout the ages have invented and reinvented adventure in this diverse and voluptuous land. In this thrilling and layered new collection, women from Barbara Grizzuti Harrison to the neo-Tuscan Frances Mayes to Mary Simetti Taylor explore and describe in loving prose individual infatuations with a land that is both complicated by and adored for a rich tradition.

France, A Love Story

12626455.jpgFrance, A Love Story, edited by Camille Cusumano, Seal Press, Emeryville, Calif.

What is it about France that so captivates the imagination? For many Americans, a love of France and all things French started in school, while mastering the seductive sounds of the language. Others were fascinated by the idea of France’s exalted culture; for them, it represented above all a different way of life, filled with luxe, calme et volupté. Later on, when they made summer trips or settled there, they came to appreciate how fully the French character resounded with their own sensibilities.

In this poignant collection, twenty-five contemporary women writers share their firsthand experiences with the people, landscape, flavors, history, art, culture, and particular joie de vivre of this enchanted land. These stories tell not just of a deep love for France, but also of the pain and joy of discovering new dimensions to their very selves. The voices represented in France, a Love Story are varied, witty, and inimitable. They include, among others, M.F.K Fisher’s colorful description of her first days in Dijon, Ayun Halliday’s irreverent account of her visit to a Parisian fashion show, and Alice Kaplan’s funny and sexy story of a summer fling with a young Frenchman. In her own unique way, each contributor seeks to express what anyone who has been there knows: that there is something about France that always stays with you.

America Loves Salads

America Loves Salads, GuildAmerica (Doubleday), New York, 1993, author.

The New Foods

The New Foods, Camille Cusumano, Henry Holt, New York, 1989, author.

Tofu, Tempeh, and Other Soy Delights

Find this out-of-print but never out-of-date book from Rodale Press, 1984 at Amazon.

Rodale’s Basic Natural Foods Cookbook

rodale.jpged. Charles Gerras; writers Camille Cusumano and Carol Munson, Rodale Press, Emmaus, PA, 1983.

To be a good cook and to use any cookbook with confidence, you must understand the basics of food preparation. Find Rodale’s equivalent of the whole foods Joy of  Cooking at Amazon.

Tango, an Argentine Love Story

TANGO: an Argentine Love Story is a “spicy travel memoir of a woman who loved, lost, got mad—and decided to dance.”

“Tango is a remarkable addition to contemporary dharma literature. It reads like a thriller, a romance, and above all it shows the redemptive potential of a sincere spiritual practice.”

—Sylvia Boorstein, PhD, author of Happiness Is an Inside Job

“Camille Cusumano has lived out many a mid-life woman’s fantasy: packing her bags, slit skirts, and tango shoes and spending a year in Argentina. The result is a memoir that is like the dance itself: smooth, absorbing, and erotically charged.”

—Laura Fraser, author of An Italian Affair

“The transformative power of the tango embrace beautifully captured. Bravo!”
—-Marina Palmer, author of Kiss & Tango